2270 Build thread, Looking forward to making all of the mistakes! |
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2270 Build thread, Looking forward to making all of the mistakes! |
vjb206 |
Dec 11 2023, 08:42 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 30 Joined: 23-December 19 From: New Jersey Member No.: 23,760 Region Association: North East States |
Hey folks! I've got...
I started by measuring all of the the main journals on the crank and I got a range from 2.358” - 2.360” (I used a digital caliper and I'm pretty sure I did this correctly). Then I “dry-fit” Silverline STD/STD main bearings into the case (sans crank), torqued everything down, and got 0.003” in radial play (I used a cylinder bore dial gauge for the first time, and I think I did it correctly). The spec-sheet says radial play should be between 0.06” - 0.10” (0.03” - 0.09” for #2); and I have 0.003." I'm a MINIMUM of 0.057" off, is that normal? What's my next step?
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technicalninja |
Dec 31 2023, 02:18 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,259 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Ah - the link to the Samba T4 pump rebuild is as in my thread. The author does a great job documenting a T4 pump rebuild. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=699156 I have a mill and would use a single point carbide drill capable of easily drilling the case hardened idler shaft so I would pin it a little differently but the method outlined here is perfectly plausible for those with only a drill press. I didn’t touch on it in my thread but the main problem with larger gears like 30mm is that too much pressure will cause the oil cooler to bypass. This in turn creates overheating. Doesn't the Tangerine valve fix this issue? That was the "oh wow, valve is a must" moment for me. If running an auxiliary cooler with long hose lengths to the front of the car and back plus restriction of a an external thermostat - the 30mm pump would be fine. How about T-stat and short lines to a Setrab back by the transmission? |
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