Erik's Build Thread, 914-6 Conversion |
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Erik's Build Thread, 914-6 Conversion |
B3owulf |
Mar 27 2023, 03:23 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 45 Joined: 4-September 21 From: Clarksville TN Member No.: 25,879 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
This will be a build thread for my 914 build. The build is ongoing, I will post updates here and hopefully keep progressing! I posted most of these pictures before, just trying to put it in one spot for a continual thread.
The end goal of the build is to have a fun autocross car that is nice enough to drive for date night or cars and coffee. It will not be a concourse car or race competitively, just out to have fun. This car was a stalled project that I purchased as a roller and a pile of parts. I purchased a set of wheels for my Cayman and the seller had a 914 in his garage. After going back and forth for a bit I finally convinced my wife to let me buy it. It came with a ton of spare parts and the first couple months with the car was mainly just figuring out what I had and what I needed. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952190.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952191.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952191.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952192.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952192.5.jpg) Part of the deal was my wife got to pick the color. She picked Ravenna Green and it turned out good! I spent more than I wanted on the paint but less than I should have. It looks great from a distance, OK up close, and a PCA concourse nerd would throw me out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952193.6.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952193.7.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952194.8.jpg) Found some cool wheels online and got the windows, door handles, hood, and trunk mounted up. Unfortunately progress stopped for a while after this due to work requirements which had me away from home for a while. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952194.9.jpg) Got a few weeks back home and scored some more parts off of ebay. Got a wrecked 911, a 914 motor, and an MFI 6 cylinder. I sold the 911 and left the MFI engine with my helper to figure out. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952195.10.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952195.11.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.postimg.cc-25879-1679952196.12.jpg) Got back home 6 months later and was shocked to find my 2 year old had made no progress on the build. However, I had a huge pile of -6 conversion parts from Ben and others waiting for me so its time to get after it! I will keep posting as I make progress. |
technicalninja |
May 5 2024, 11:36 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,825 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Two things.
1st: Something I missed on first read. "Component for sportomatic shifter". When I'm sourcing a core for a performance build, I WANT an "auto" version. Automatic vs manual the automatic will normally have 1/2 the "total revolutions" on the engine vs manual. Thrust wear is 10% auto vs manual. No clutch means no funky forward thrust on the bearings at every shift. Most automatics do not allow over-revving. Automatics are normally driven at less throttle angle. The automatic is designed for low rpm daily use. It's a SHITLOAD easier on the engine... As long as the basic parts are the same, I'll intentionally choose autos for my cores. #2 The leak down test with excessive airflow through the exhaust valves. What I will do when I have obvious leakage through a valve is to lightly tap the valve/rocker arm with a wooden dowel and a hammer. As the engine is at TDC you just barely want to "unseat" the valve and NOT bash the valve into the top of the piston. It makes a DISTINCT noise when done during a leak down. A pneumatic "BONK' is the best way to describe it. You WILL see the needle on the second gauge "flicker" big time. Sometimes the airflow itself "blows" the trash off of the valve/seat and your numbers can come up dramatically. Now, I don't think I could just install that engine... If I was already to the point you're at, I'd be pulling the heads/jugs at a minimum. I'd pull the valve springs and check valve to guide clearance. If bad that's a trip to the machine shop. If good you might be able to hand lap the valves in. I'd replace the rings and have the jugs plateau honed at the machine shop if the piston and cylinders were re-usable. I'd replace the valve springs too. At least two of those springs have been sitting "compressed" for however long the engine has sat, I would not trust them! Breaking a spring takes the valve and piston on that cylinder at a minimum. At high RPM it could be catastrophic and take EVERYTHING! Springs are cheap in my book. I consider them a "consumable" that should be replaced automatically on anything over 10 years old that you have apart. Normally, I'm hunting "improved" springs if available. Your children are cute! Enjoy them while you can. They will grow out of it quickly! Mine did... |
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