Amp wiring, My amp is protecting itself for some reason Options

[CCE]

Just installed a Bluetooth amp to my car, to clean the dashboard with a blank faceplate, I ran a cable direct to my battery but I am getting the amp to shut down protecting maybe because of an overload since it doesn’t get energy from the regulated board I think. Can anyone confirm if my assumption is correct or if my regulator is not regulating correctly.

Thanks.
I updated the photo. And my wires

[technicalninja]

What's up @Superhawk996 ?

Do you just argue for the sake of argument?

He's right! The OEMs do single grounds all of the time. It's a requirement if you want to add in a shunt (in the neg cable) for current draw. Won't work without it.

It's done for cost reasons (or the shunt) and modern build practice is SHITLOADS better regarding lack of electrical resistance through the body. They do many processes to the sheet metal that they didn't 50 years ago.

The place that is the Achilles heel for Bimmers is the ground cable from the engine to the body.
I replace those all of the time. Super nice looking big, braided cable!
If it was grounded to the battery that wouldn't happen!
Battery being 10 feet away from the engine doesn't make adding the extra ground easy.

The very worst BMW ground cables (at the battery) have an explosive squib in them. This isolates the battery in the case of an accident. It is the LAST to detonate in an airbag deployment.
The squib get corrosion in it over time and takes the car down hard.
The cable takes 1 minute to change but cost $450!
A 18" FLAPS cable WILL solve the no-start but you will have an SRS light from that point on.
I'm a BMW guy. I have a 98 E36 M3. I LOVE old BMWs. Someday I'll have an E24 M6 and an E39 M5 (early canbus!).
I advise my customers to NOT keep a canbus equipped BMW past 150K or ten years.
You end up buying battery cables and other stuff that cost 1000% more than they should!
The ones who want to keep their stuff longer I advise to get serious about DIY OR expect maintenance cost to skyrocket after 10Y/150K.

Superhawk didn't mention this as he probably hasn't had to deal with PISSED OFF customers over a simple ground strap...

The 50 years of corrosion on non-treated sheet metal doesn't help ANY car.
Even old Bimmers have problems.

Hyundia and Kia use single body grounds.
When those cars show up for electrical issues (alternator/starter) I first test by connecting jumper cable from the negative bat terminal to the tranny case.
Problem usually disappears!
I FIX 90% of them by adding a single ground to the trans.
They don't need the alternator/starter the customers call about.
They need to be PROPERLY grounded!
It's $50 versus 400 and the new parts often don't fix it anyways.
These cars are ten years old, and the single ground has functioned fine for all of them right up to the point it doesn't.
Fixing shit like that for chump change VASTLY increases customer confidence in their technician!
If I end up putting a starter/alternator on the car, the additional ground gets installed as well.
EVERY SINGLE TIME!!!!
I hunt "no comebacks" viciously.
Comebacks DESTROY customer confidence and don't make money!

This comes from a guy that has been repairing vehicles for 40+ years...
I have a 95% "Kill ratio". After I do work for you, you NEVER take any of your vehicles to anyone else. You, normally, feed me your relatives and friends.
I tell customers to "send me more victims". They always laugh.
I have customers that have been with me for 30+ years.
I do ZERO advertisement...

SH is right! The radio problem is (most likely) not related to the single ground.

Electron flow is from negative to positive and if the negative side has ANY resistance, it will cause strange shit to happen.

Lots if threads on here mention REPLACING the original ground cable to the engine as preventative maintenance/fix strange starting/charging issues.

Your car had that set up originally.
It doesn't now.

Take my advice or not...
You could do it easily with the battery you have.
Get a side post negative cable with a 10-gauge second wire at your FLAPS.
Cable goes to engine/trans. Second lead could support the forward ground bar or a second one to engine.
$25 and ten minutes...

To say "Oh, your 50-year-old ANYTHING can get away with a single chassis ground" is EXTREMELY short sighted in my book. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

SH, if you were working for me, telling the customer a 50-year-old chassis ground was the way to go would be "Strike One"...