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neilbardsley |
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#21
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 43 Joined: 11-October 20 From: England Member No.: 24,754 Region Association: Europe ![]() |
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165865762191?mkc...&media=COPY
Is this kit compatible with the type 4 filter? Seems like pretty easy add on? I would prefer a coupling that didn't use the external filter until 180f but can't find a complete kit. |
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technicalninja |
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#22
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,432 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
If Chris puts his name on it, it's got my vote for sure. I am considering one of these for my /4, she runs around 210 - 220 on a hot day. That’s perfect. Why would you change anything?! You don’t need additional oil cooling. Zach When I run at 85 or so MPH, she gets a bit over 230. The horror (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Lots of modern sports cars will push 250-270 under load and that’s with an oil to water cooler. Air cooled motorcycles pushed hard will run 300. Trying to make air cooled engines run 180 under load is folly and isn’t even desirable. Just my $0.02 based on decades of testing modern cars as a day job and messing with air cooled engines since I was a kid. Zach nailed it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Unless you're running a dedicated track car at WOT you WANT the oil to hit at LEAST 220 to vaporize the moisture in it. Most folks don't realize when you burn a gallon of gasoline you produce ALMOST a gallon of water vapor in the exhaust. Some of that get past the rings and will dilute the oil after time. I would spec a 210/220degree T-sat on most street applications but ONLY AFTER installing both and accurate oil temp sender and an accurate CHT (on an aircooled) and verifying I needed the extra complication that an external oil system creates. I'd want to see constant temps above 250 before I started adding coolers. I would use fully synthetic oil as it has increased temperature resistance. A short run up to 280-290 would not cause me to "shut down". A streetcar that only hit 180 would bug the crap out of me. It would require 3 times the oil changes that a 230 degree system needs. OP, you are in England. I'd bet you don't need anything more than the stock cooler (a good one in clean shape) unless you were putting it under severe load for extended periods of time. Properly diagnosis is the first step. You need temp sensors and 4 hours of driving data before you need additional cooling... |
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