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neilbardsley |
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#21
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 43 Joined: 11-October 20 From: England Member No.: 24,754 Region Association: Europe ![]() |
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165865762191?mkc...&media=COPY
Is this kit compatible with the type 4 filter? Seems like pretty easy add on? I would prefer a coupling that didn't use the external filter until 180f but can't find a complete kit. |
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GregAmy |
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#22
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,316 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
We have similar discussions in General Aviation flying circles. They may be 360 cubic inches (or 320, or 540, or whatever) but they're just big air-cooled engines.
The general mindset is that you don't want to fire it up unless you're going to fly it. The general rule of thumb is to get the oil to at least 180 degrees* and run it for a half hour. I've seen some smaller Lycoming engines where someone loved to do short trips, like fire up his airplane after work each day for a few trips around the pattern, and it had crusty stuff like the above (his condensate relief tube was actually blocked). I actually use that rule-of-thumb in all my cars, 914 and otherwise. I'll push any car around in the drive/garage instead of quick-firing to move it. Just gives my brain the crusties firing up a car and shutting it down 30 seconds later. So here is your reason for randomly grabbing the keys and taking nice long drives in the 914: it's for dependability, improved service, reduced repairs, reduced costs, and ultimately, for the safety of children everywhere and of mankind as a whole. You are doing a great service for this country. Thank you. - GA * You don't have to "boil off" the condensation at 212, it'll evaporate just fine at lower temps, it just takes longer. Ask the sweat glands on your arm if you disagree... |
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