Ground straps, Make me angry |
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Ground straps, Make me angry |
emerygt350 |
Aug 29 2024, 03:19 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,512 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States |
Brand new ground strap, installed clean and brushed on both transmission and body. Completely failed me. Wire brushed the neg to body. Checked the cables and replaced the post to starter cable (it was questionable ). Car still wouldn't turn over. Added a new 6 gauge cable from the negative terminal to the spot where the coil attaches to the tin work, turns over like a new car. Even my gauges are working better. Wth. Could it just be the transmission case itself?
I remember an argument about additional ground straps a couple years ago, but can't find it. Any reason not to just keep my aftermarket ground strap? |
Spoke |
Aug 31 2024, 04:14 PM
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#2
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,104 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Brand new ground strap, installed clean and brushed on both transmission and body. Completely failed me. Wire brushed the neg to body. Checked the cables and replaced the post to starter cable (it was questionable ). Car still wouldn't turn over. Added a new 6 gauge cable from the negative terminal to the spot where the coil attaches to the tin work, turns over like a new car. Even my gauges are working better. Wth. Could it just be the transmission case itself? I remember an argument about additional ground straps a couple years ago, but can't find it. Any reason not to just keep my aftermarket ground strap? @emerygt350 Wow. There's a lot to unpack with your ground issue. Some questions: When did this issue start? Did you change anything? Added a new 6 gauge cable from the negative terminal Is this wire from the battery NEG to engine case in addition to the normal battery NEG to chassis? In this case, you've paralleled the new wire with the OEM current path. The OEM current path is battery NEG to chassis lug, then panel to panel to panel to the lug above the trans to the trans strap. If there's some issues panel to panel then you still have an issue with chassis ground as the entire chassis should be at ground. All electrical components use chassis as ground. If your chassis isn't a good ground, the issue is still there. The added cable helped the starter current loop but may mask the real issue. Do you have the OEM voltmeter in the cabin? If so it would be interesting to see if it changed. Even my gauges are working better. This may indicate a better ground at the gauges now. Question is what is that path? From battery NEG to engine case. Then where? Either through the accelerator cable, or the engine case to trans case to trans lug. If you were to connect your new cable from battery NEG to trans case bolt I bet it would work just as well. There might be something going on with the lug behind the battery or that panel. I remember an argument about additional ground straps @VaccaRabite One of those discussions was for Zach's alternator issues. Turns out powder coating the fan shroud inhibited the ground return for the alternator. A ground strap from alternator case to chassis solved the issue. |
emerygt350 |
Aug 31 2024, 04:33 PM
Post
#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,512 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States |
Brand new ground strap, installed clean and brushed on both transmission and body. Completely failed me. Wire brushed the neg to body. Checked the cables and replaced the post to starter cable (it was questionable ). Car still wouldn't turn over. Added a new 6 gauge cable from the negative terminal to the spot where the coil attaches to the tin work, turns over like a new car. Even my gauges are working better. Wth. Could it just be the transmission case itself? I remember an argument about additional ground straps a couple years ago, but can't find it. Any reason not to just keep my aftermarket ground strap? @emerygt350 Wow. There's a lot to unpack with your ground issue. Some questions: When did this issue start? Did you change anything? Added a new 6 gauge cable from the negative terminal Is this wire from the battery NEG to engine case in addition to the normal battery NEG to chassis? In this case, you've paralleled the new wire with the OEM current path. The OEM current path is battery NEG to chassis lug, then panel to panel to panel to the lug above the trans to the trans strap. If there's some issues panel to panel then you still have an issue with chassis ground as the entire chassis should be at ground. All electrical components use chassis as ground. If your chassis isn't a good ground, the issue is still there. The added cable helped the starter current loop but may mask the real issue. Do you have the OEM voltmeter in the cabin? If so it would be interesting to see if it changed. Even my gauges are working better. This may indicate a better ground at the gauges now. Question is what is that path? From battery NEG to engine case. Then where? Either through the accelerator cable, or the engine case to trans case to trans lug. If you were to connect your new cable from battery NEG to trans case bolt I bet it would work just as well. There might be something going on with the lug behind the battery or that panel. I remember an argument about additional ground straps @VaccaRabite One of those discussions was for Zach's alternator issues. Turns out powder coating the fan shroud inhibited the ground return for the alternator. A ground strap from alternator case to chassis solved the issue. Interesting! Yes, I kept the post to body ground. Just added my new one to the existing. Ground strap is still there. I ran my multi all over the place from grounds to body, to battery etc and all was fine (except the POS to starter cable, that was good but variable so I replaced it). It really was only when heavy draw was happening. As soon as I get a free moment (college just started back up, so my time is precious for a couple weeks) I will pull that ground strap and get a good look at the contacts and the strap itself. The issue was over night. One day everything was normal (but nothing like now, I didn't know my starter could spin an engine like that) and then it would hardly turn over. I was noticing some oddness though. Backfiring through the TB when having fun kicking it at 3k (she really loves 2.5 to 5k) I would randomly get light rattle can backfires through the TB. That became a major thing after I lost my ground got it started and took it for a drive. So it seems like I was losing all ground at that point. That was the day I figured it out. |
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