front wheel movement, Thought it was the bearings, but they are new... |
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Thursday, 23 January 2025 |
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front wheel movement, Thought it was the bearings, but they are new... |
rjames |
Sep 4 2024, 12:28 AM
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#1
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,183 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
After getting the newly rebuilt front suspension buttoned up, I thought I was done, but I can't seem to remove a bit of play in both of the front wheels. Feels exactly like loose wheel bearings, except that it's not. I installed new wheel bearings in the rotors even though the old ones looked fine since I was in there anyway. Spindles looked fine, too.
I verified no movement in the strut, and I can't feel any movement anywhere else on the strut assembly (ball joint, tie rods, control arm etc.). Over tightening the bearings only helped a tiny bit, (I didn't drive on the overtightened bearing, just did it to see if it removed the play). I've done my front bearings before and didn't run into this issue. I guess I'm left with removing the rotors, but don't even know what to look for. |
Superhawk996 |
Sep 6 2024, 12:20 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,679 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
What did you use for lower control arm bushings rubber or hard bushing like Delrin?
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rjames |
Sep 6 2024, 01:16 PM
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#3
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 4,183 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
What did you use for lower control arm bushings rubber or hard bushing like Delrin? Just crawled out from under the car. It's either in the spindles or the gland nut- I really can't tell. Given that I'm out of options on hand with the spindle and bearings, I might as well try to tighten the gland nuts more. Not something I want to do given the issues I had getting the bolt tightened that sits on the top of the strut that secures it to the camber plate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Tightening the gland nuts was a HUGE PITA because of the type of gland nut that Koni uses (and is required to use in order to center the shaft in the housing). It's only slightly wider than the strut housing, so no pipe wrench. It's a pin style nut, and the pin holes have a very shallow depth making the tool very prone to sliding out. It was hard enough to tighten them on the bench with a vice. Trying to do it in the wheel well without the whole works moving will be 10x the fun with the added chance of sliding off and nicking the fender. Fuch. |
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