Help me set up these Webers, Basic Weber questions Options

[MikeK]

Hi friends. I'm currently installing some Weber clones on my 70 and have run into some issues. I'm using a CB linkage and filter bases. I tried installing the carbs with the linkage to the rear of the car, but the drop links hit the torsion springs used on the trunk. I flipped the bases so the crossbar is towards the front of the car, but the linkage needs to rotate counter-clockwise (see photo) in order to operate the carbs. I guess I could run the throttle arm on the top of the linkage and pull it that way, but I would prefer the arm to be in the down position. I was thinking maybe a custom cable which would be longer and come in from the back or perhaps some kind of lever to reverse the rotation?

I don't know, but I'm sure this has been dealt with in the past. Just looking for an elegant solution. As a side note, tall air cleaners most definitely don't fit the passengers side.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727464006.1.jpg)

Thanks in advance.

[Jack Standz]

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...

The standard jetting and venturis supplied with the carbs area good starting point. It has 28mm venturis. These carbs were about $75 each on Ebay. I've gone through them, set the floats to 12mm, checked jet sizes, lube and lock-tighted everything and reassembled. The only complaints that I have so far is that the emulsion tubes are drilled perpendicular to the tube and not at an angle, like OG Webers are. I'm going to give it a try and worst case scenario is that I stick in some new F11's.

Here's what it came with:
200 Air correction
F11 Emulsion tubes
115 Mains
50 Idles

We used a pair of those cheap Weber clone carbs & find no problem with how they function.

Tuning is pretty much the same, so get several sets of main and idle jets in a range of progressive sizes. They're pretty inexpensive on ebay, but take a while to receive from other countries.

Getting steady fuel pressure at the right pressure (around 3 PSI on our gauge) was critical to keep the bowls filled and not over pressuring the seat causing flooding. During the inspection and test fitting, we replaced the needle valves and seats with name brand parts, which seemed to work better.

Your fuel pressure regulator may be a problem, so keep an eye on the fuel pressure gauge as we used a similar looking one that did not keep the pressure low enough to work properly.

If you do decide to change the vents, make sure you measure them as they come in different outside diameters.

And the best tool for dialing them in is getting an AFR gauge. Very helpful as we've taken that car from sea level to 8200 feet high, which is a challenge for a carbureted motor & similar to your altitude.

[MikeK]

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...

The standard jetting and venturis supplied with the carbs area good starting point. It has 28mm venturis. These carbs were about $75 each on Ebay. I've gone through them, set the floats to 12mm, checked jet sizes, lube and lock-tighted everything and reassembled. The only complaints that I have so far is that the emulsion tubes are drilled perpendicular to the tube and not at an angle, like OG Webers are. I'm going to give it a try and worst case scenario is that I stick in some new F11's.

Here's what it came with:
200 Air correction
F11 Emulsion tubes
115 Mains
50 Idles

We used a pair of those cheap Weber clone carbs & find no problem with how they function.

Tuning is pretty much the same, so get several sets of main and idle jets in a range of progressive sizes. They're pretty inexpensive on ebay, but take a while to receive from other countries.

Getting steady fuel pressure at the right pressure (around 3 PSI on our gauge) was critical to keep the bowls filled and not over pressuring the seat causing flooding. During the inspection and test fitting, we replaced the needle valves and seats with name brand parts, which seemed to work better.

Your fuel pressure regulator may be a problem, so keep an eye on the fuel pressure gauge as we used a similar looking one that did not keep the pressure low enough to work properly.

If you do decide to change the vents, make sure you measure them as they come in different outside diameters.

And the best tool for dialing them in is getting an AFR gauge. Very helpful as we've taken that car from sea level to 8200 feet high, which is a challenge for a carbureted motor & similar to your altitude.

Thanks for another vote of confidence on these Chinese Webers. Though I might have to change a couple of things, I like the idea of having something new that hasn't been abused by a PO. Many VW tuners echo the same sentiment.

I originally purchased a 40 psi fuel pump with the intention of getting the FI up and running. There appeared to be a problem with ECU and not getting the injectors to fire. I went through the factory procedure to test things and determined that I'd rather put some carbs on. I'll be able to use them when I rebuild/tune the motor in the future. For now, just get it running.

The regulator is from Summit: Summit regulator I'm going to use a return to the tank since I've already replumbed from the tank back to the motor with NiCop tubing. I spoke with tech support and they assured me that it will regulate to 3 from 40 without a problem. It has a port on the side that I bought a thread-in gauge to monitor it while tuning. It should make it easy to troubleshoot if I have a problem on the side of the road.

Vents are currently 28's, which is what came with them. Should be fine for a FI camed, 1700cc at altitude. Good enough to get it on the road.

Several years ago, a guy stopped by my garage and gave me a small tackle box with a good variety of Weber jets; idles, mains, etc... He also gave me a 16" Fuch. Never saw the guy again, but thanks!

I'd definitely like to get a wideband for tuning, but that's currently a luxury as there is so much else to be done. I'll have to do some old-school plug reading in the meantime.