-6 Engine Install Questions Options

[Tom1394racing]

I am now ready for my first 914-6 engine install as I move forward on my -6 GT project.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...8279&st=420

I have the car on my 2-post lift and the engine on my lift table. I am using the Mad Dog Motorsport bulkhead engine mount.







I plan to raise the engine on the lift table, lower the car on the lift and jockey the engine into position

One of my concerns is the balance of the car on the lift as the heavy Aluminum case 3.2 short stroke engine is engine gets installed. I noticed that as I was disassembling the car on my lift that car was heavily weighted towards the rear before the engine and gearbox came out. I could almost tip the car backwards. I remedied this by running a jacking strap through the cockpit onto the arms of my lift to hold the car in place.





I am thinking I need to do this again before attempting the -6 engine install. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I plan to install the engine without the side tins and carb rain hats but with the heat exchangers and engine oil lines. My oil t-stat, twin coils/MSD boxes and fuel lines are all in place in the engine compartment. I plan to install the CV/axle assemblies, the side tins and the muffler after the engine install. Does this sound about right? Anything I am missing or need to look out for?

[gereed75]

all good advice and as you can see getting the tins in is a bear. I like the idea of putting the bolts in but not tight. allow it to flap down. once installed tighten the bolts and add the end bolts. Never tried it that way but it sounds good. Might even leave the turbo covers off to get clearer access to the tin bolts, then install covers.

I have a stock mount but this tip should also work on the maddog mount - remove the "stock" bolts from the bulkhead mount and drop some long bolts or all thread or steel rods through the bulkhead mount holes. This allows you to align the motor with the mount while it is still below the fire wall and the extended bolts and associated holes are still visible. Once the motor is raised to mount level it is very hard to see the short stock bolts and getting it all aligned can be sort of trial and error guess. Once the longer bolts are through the engine side holes you can even put nuts on them. the longer bolts then sorta guide the motor up into the mount. Once home, remove one at a time and insert and tighten a stock bolt then the other.

It is the right side carbs that are further aft and these tend to interfere with the aft firewall as the engine goes up and forward. The left side not so much so just removing the pax side carbs gets the clearance and only removing that side saves a bit of work

try to set your motor on the lift table with a bit of an angle, front fan side high, maybe just 10 - 15 degrees or so. Work the front in and up first and the trans can be lifted, even man handled up once the front is home. i rough cut contour as necessary some 2x4s to set the motor on so it is steady on the lift table, not rockin and twisting.

patience, sometimes it slips right in, some times takes aggravating extra time.

Where are you in CT?? Ill be in Darien over the weekend.

love your car your work and your story!!

[Tom1394racing]

all good advice and as you can see getting the tins in is a bear. I like the idea of putting the bolts in but not tight. allow it to flap down. once installed tighten the bolts and add the end bolts. Never tried it that way but it sounds good. Might even leave the turbo covers off to get clearer access to the tin bolts, then install covers.

I have a stock mount but this tip should also work on the maddog mount - remove the "stock" bolts from the bulkhead mount and drop some long bolts or all thread or steel rods through the bulkhead mount holes. This allows you to align the motor with the mount while it is still below the fire wall and the extended bolts and associated holes are still visible. Once the motor is raised to mount level it is very hard to see the short stock bolts and getting it all aligned can be sort of trial and error guess. Once the longer bolts are through the engine side holes you can even put nuts on them. the longer bolts then sorta guide the motor up into the mount. Once home, remove one at a time and insert and tighten a stock bolt then the other.

It is the right side carbs that are further aft and these tend to interfere with the aft firewall as the engine goes up and forward. The left side not so much so just removing the pax side carbs gets the clearance and only removing that side saves a bit of work

try to set your motor on the lift table with a bit of an angle, front fan side high, maybe just 10 - 15 degrees or so. Work the front in and up first and the trans can be lifted, even man handled up once the front is home. i rough cut contour as necessary some 2x4s to set the motor on so it is steady on the lift table, not rockin and twisting.

patience, sometimes it slips right in, some times takes aggravating extra time.

Where are you in CT?? Ill be in Darien over the weekend.

love your car your work and your story!!

Thanks Gereed

I did loosen up the side tins and removed the screws from the front tin to allow all three pieces some freedom of movement to clear the trailing arm nuts and front mount.

Your suggestion for using a pair of long bolts to align the mount also sounds like a good one. I am not sure it will work with the Mad Dog mount, but I will check it out.

I did not understand Perry's suggestion of removing the carbs before the install, but I did not consider the potential interference with the rear bulkhead. I think I will follow that suggestion as well.

The Mad Dog install instructions do suggest tipping the front of the engine upward, so I'll follow up on that as well. I have the heat exchangers installed on the engine and they pride a stable base on the lift table.

I am located in Portland, CT. You are welcome to stop by anytime you are in the area.