Dwelling on the topic of Dwell, To continue to Dwell or Not to Dwell Options

[ctc911ctc]

'74, 2.0L 24K miles, all original

I have been trying to get the dwell angle to the specified number between 44 and 50 degrees. This has been a real effort

I rebuilt the Distributor, I thought I did a good job but the vacuum plate was being touched by the points. The shaft that the spring of the points hinges on has an extension that is used to anchor the points. This extension was touching the plate below the one that the points were mounted on.



The red arrow points to the top of the shaft where the other side there is a protrusion used to anchor the points to the top plate. This protrusion was rubbing against the bottom plate which is shown by the green arrow.

Sooooo, I did what all of us would do and ground the shaft to a few mils, just enough for it to anchor and NOT touch the lower plate.

Next I set the points to .014m to approximate the dwell angle and it was 25deg - grrrr, supposed to be between 44 and 50........sigh
Then I sent it to .013 and it was 55deg
Then to 0.12 and it was 15 deg.

I tried another Dwell tool (same results) and then I bought a new Distributor.

I bought it from a very experienced rebuild shop that was suggested by members here, It arrived and I installed it. Capacitor needs to be mounted on the side of the distributor that is toward the rear of the car.....learned this the hard way.

I now can get the dwell to 40 degrees - I am 4 degrees off. I was thinking of chasing this but decided I would check in with the Dwell team here at 914World.......should I chase 4 degrees?

Any direction as to this?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

ALSO - is there a correct method for setting the points? Meaning, I sometimes have the points "click" after I pull the feeler gauge out of the points, should there be ANY movement of the points after the feeler gauge is removed?

Signed: Long on Theory, Short on Experience.

[technicalninja]

Harbor freight cheapy

https://www.harborfreight.com/1224v-remote-...ASABEgLeWvD_BwE

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80...4396303b7e2b8a2

Personally, I'll run an extra "engage" wire from the relay/starter solenoid to allow hook ups without crawling under the car.

I'll probably go one step further adding a momentary switch in the E-comp and make it permanent, but I can understand you wanting not to have extra crap.

Your car is Beautiful! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

For doing the dwell adjustment having a helper spin it over via ignition switch should work fine.
You will have to have ignition in "on" position anyway to adjust dwell.

Now, having a "spin it now" permanent switch in the E-compartment is damn handy...

The permanent method is cheaper than the "bump starters" I posted.

My bump starter is 35+ years old; I use the shit out of it.
I'm messing with 500+ cars a year.

I don't know the fuse box well enough to say "add power at this point" but it might be possible without EVER getting under the car.

Pretty much all new cars have a starter relay in the under-hood fuse box and this is where I always START in a "starter inop" issue.
Takes about 15 seconds to check for two powers with Key in start, 1 ground and then cross one of the powers to starter feed.
Super quick diag and I know what's wrong....

This test light (which is sort of pricy) is KICK ASS as it has the ability to provide both a 10amp power source and 10 amp ground source by pressing a button.
It sort of has a bump starter built in...

Power probe 4, this is what I have, they have a newer version and cheaper versions.
Mine was 160 when I received it as a gift 10 years ago. This is NOT worth 270 today IMO. Even back then it seemed overly expensive to me...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-Case-Acc...C125&sr=1-5

Cheaper Autel version: I'd buy this if I didn't have a power probe already. There are less expensive alternates available. Autel stuff seems "decent" to me.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-PowerScan-Auto...c2c939f235c19cb