D-Jet Conversion not going as planned., Car starts but will not run. Options

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I am converting back to D-Jet and my car will start but dies right after. It will not rev up applying throttle. I have a 1975 914 2.0. It was running great with Weber 40s prior.

The D-Jet system is from a 1974 2.0. All the parts came in visibly good condition. TPS calibrates good, AAV tested good, Thermo sensor good, air intake temp sensor good, and a new cylinder head temp sensor. The only test that I think is failing is the vacuum test on the MPS. It leaks. Video of testing the MPS.. The MPS has also been rebuilt at some point. The original part # has been removed. There's a good chance it is not calibrated for my car. I have all new vacuum hose and fuel pressure is between 28 and 30.

I don't have any tools to calibrate the MPS. Should I try turning the inner screw on the MPS to see if it helps? Or should I send it to someone to have it rebuild again and recalibrated? If the later do you have any recommendations on who to send it to?

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No change after turning it down to 24. The engine starts while cranking but dies a second later. I tried starting fluid again, but it just flooded, and it wouldn’t crank over for a while. If I give it full throttle after cranking, it runs for a couple of seconds longer, but that’s it.

Next steps: I plan to pull the ECU and take measurements at the pins. I also want to pull the injectors from the intake and place them in jars to observe the fuel flow and compare the amount from each one. I previously tested them on the bench and verified they had good flow with pressurized carb cleaner.

The MPS has a small leak, but it's not extreme. I think it should still be good enough for the car to run. Maybe not great but should run. Thoughts?

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The engine starts while cranking but dies a second later.

If the dizzy isn't hitting the injector contacts or whatever is in the 123 dizzy, the engine will not continue to run after the initial 2 sec charge-up when the key is turned on.

Have you confirmed the dizzy is hitting the contacts for the injectors? When I was testing the DJET for my 914 before mounting on the engine, I would turn the dizzy by hand and could hear the injectors firing confirming the dizzy is hitting the injector contacts.

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The engine starts while cranking but dies a second later.

If the dizzy isn't hitting the injector contacts or whatever is in the 123 dizzy, the engine will not continue to run after the initial 2 sec charge-up when the key is turned on.

Have you confirmed the dizzy is hitting the contacts for the injectors? When I was testing the DJET for my 914 before mounting on the engine, I would turn the dizzy by hand and could hear the injectors firing confirming the dizzy is hitting the injector contacts.

I have not. I do have the yellow and white wires from the 123 plugged into the ECU harness but I haven't confirmed that its is working. My noid light will be here this evening and I can verify the injectors are getting a signal from the ECU. If they are that would indicate the dizzy is triggering right? I don't want to move my dizzy ATM since I set it before with the webers and it was good then.

[Spoke]

The engine starts while cranking but dies a second later.

If the dizzy isn't hitting the injector contacts or whatever is in the 123 dizzy, the engine will not continue to run after the initial 2 sec charge-up when the key is turned on.

Have you confirmed the dizzy is hitting the contacts for the injectors? When I was testing the DJET for my 914 before mounting on the engine, I would turn the dizzy by hand and could hear the injectors firing confirming the dizzy is hitting the injector contacts.

I have not. I do have the yellow and white wires from the 123 plugged into the ECU harness but I haven't confirmed that its is working. My noid light will be here this evening and I can verify the injectors are getting a signal from the ECU. If they are that would indicate the dizzy is triggering right? I don't want to move my dizzy ATM since I set it before with the webers and it was good then.

Hopefully your noid light can let you know if a signal is changing state. The 2 signals should go GND - 12V - GND ... very rapidly as the engine is turning. A volt meter may not work as it is good mainly for DC or signals that don't change like battery voltage.

Yes if the signals are not functioning correctly the injectors won't fire and your engine will do what you describe: Fire initially as the FP pressurizes the system when the key is turned on then the trigger points keep the fuel pump going.