Project 3.6 RS Thread, Getting the bugs out and oil line leak Options

[Steve]

After 23 years of service out of my 3.2, I decided to buy a used 1995 3.6 from LA Dismantler with 110k miles on it. I paid $25k for the motor, Plus an additional $3k from PMS for conversion parts. Got this motor home and two of the cylinders had bad leak down from the exhaust valves. Lots of goofy issues with 3.6 motors. They have an electric smog pump which clogs the SAI passages in the exhaust valves. Sometimes you can turn the engine over with compressed air through the spark plug openings and use a rubber mallet on the exhaust valves to clear it out. This did not work for me, so I sent my motor out to get a top end overhaul, bigger valves and RS Cams.
This will not be an RS spec motor. RS Spec is 3.8 liters, bigger valves, different injection, etc. My motor is just a 1995 993 motor with one size bigger valves, RS cams and steve wong chip. I asked PMS about the 3.8 slip ins and they said their is very little noticeable difference between the two and not worth it unless your changing the P&C's anyway.

LA Dismantler lessons learned:
-Get a warranty in writing
-Do a leak down at their location before buying the motor.
I did neither and they came up with a ton of excuses not to help me.
This is also true for any wrecking yard. My Euro 3.2 also came from a wrecking yard with no warranty, but that motor was flawless.

This will probably be a very slow progress thread. I still work full time and have a family. I bought this motor two years ago and finally pulled the 3.2 a couple of weeks ago. I sold the 3.2 to the guy that did the top end overhaul on my 3.6. On the 3.2, two of the cylinders had poor leak down, due to weak rings. The motor ran great before I pulled it and all the spark plugs looked the same. So I was very surprised about the leak down results. Besides spending $4500 to PMS three years ago to reseal this engine, it has never been apart. The PMS reseal was due to the normal oil leaks around the cam chain housings and other areas. Who knows how many miles were on it. The guy who bought it said the rings are weak and to spray WD40 in the cylinders. Sure enough it brought the leak down, from 30% down to 3% on one cylinder and from 10% down to 5% on the other. He plans on doing a top end overhaul on it and flipping it or putting it in one of his 914's.

I will add pictures and more info as time goes on.
Old Euro 3.2 motor

Used 3.6 motor

[Steve]

Still won't start, but I am learning a lot about this fuel injection.

Replaced the Speed Sensor, still won't start. Still no ground from ECU to actuate the Fuel pump side of the DME relay. I can manually connect pin 36 from the ECU to ground to actuate the DME Relay, I then connected pin 3 from the ECU to ground to actuate the fuel pump side of the DME Relay. I also put pig tails on the new speed sensor so I could switch the wires around. I still get the correct sine wave and +5VAC at the ECU.

At this point, I called up the ECU doctor in Florida to test out my ECU. They also do repairs if they find anything wrong. They should get the ECU some time this week.

Also called up James at PMS and dug up some more info on the Web for things to check out / verify:

1. Does the first stage of the DME relay turn on when you turn the switch to ON
Yes!
2. Do you see the +12V with the ignition in ON at both screw terminals of the coils
Did not test this yet. I will wait until I get the ECU back
3. Does the second stage of the DME relay switch on when you crank?
No! This is usually caused by the speed sensor....
4. Continuous keyed 12vdc to PMS Harness, not accessories / relay / cigarette lighter. Must have power supplied to DME while starting.
Yes, verified I get continuous ignition +12v while starting.
5. ECU ground through cable
No. I will add this, but the ECU is bolted to the firewall. Verified I am getting a good ground from the cover to the chassis. Plus, the ground for the ignition side of the DME relay is working fine through the ECU. My 3.2 ECU was also bolted to the firewall with no issues.
6. Verify fuel pressure and hoses (return versus pressure)
Duh.. I did have these reversed. Easy fix. I also bought a harbor freight fuel pump / injection pressure gauge. Only $40.00 with no coupon. Screwed right onto fuel rail with no adapters. I am getting around 55 PSI from my 044 fuel pump.
7. Serial # on harness, could be a bad harness. There was a recall for this. Early 993 harnesses were known to short out, catch fire, etc.
Verified I have the new replacement harness.
8. Verify voltage is the same at the battery as the ECU, DME Relay and Ignition
Done! No issues
9. Does the resonance flap actuator click when you turn the ignition to ON?
Still need to check this one. I will wait until I get the ECU back.
10. Also verified by part number that I have an early ECU which has no drive block, even though my Steve Wong chip should have it disabled anyway.

On another note.. I am not content with the PMS cable. Yes it works, but I had to remove the stop under the pedal and add the Home Depot spacer at the firewall to get it to work. I would love to get the same pedal range I had before with the 3.2 bell crank and 914-6 throttle cable. Instant G https://www.instant-g.com/products/36-conve...ts-and-options/ sells a special extended bell crank on the trans that connects to the stock 914-6 throttle cable. It then uses a special cable from the bell crank to the motor. I ordered the kit. I will try it out after I get the engine running. Note that Paul (Excellence 3.6 914 article) raised the ball on the pedal actuator that the cable connects to get the correct range back. He cut it off, raised it and welded it back on.. The modified bell crank should be a bolt on solution.