My Last Vacuum Leak?, Throttle Body butterfly shaft -VIDEO Options

[ctc911ctc]

914-2L, '74 all original

While I was working on an injector problem, I installed a professionally rebuilt distributor and set the dwell angle right on the numbers: 48 degrees. After correcting the injector trouble I moved on to setting the timing. With the 27Deg RED mark only on the rear side of the flywheel I had to draw a mark on the _other_ side so I could get this done with the timing light, etc. Why do they think of a million other things and not think about marking the fly wheel on both sides?

I believe that I was about 20+ degrees off, after getting it correct, all of the engine missing just went away. I may be at the end of this journey with this car, drove all day, not a flinch, just worked properly. Like my 2 year old 1.7 in 1973.......ahhhh.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

HOWEVER

I then noticed that the idle was too high, around 1800. I set the idle screw and it is in all of the way - still around 1800. VACUUM LEAK!?! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

On this car I have had perhaps a dozen different vacuum leaks, manifold gasket (did not seat right), Plenum (needed a complete re-weld), Manifold tube cloth connectors to the plenum (too lose, needed to be snugged a bit closer to the plenum). So, where is this leak?

I recently purchased a smoke machine and was using it incorrectly - I thought that I would see the smoke being SUCKED into the vacuum leak.......well, that did not work, then I wanted a few videos and put the smoke in the throttle body and This is what happened:

https://youtube.com/shorts/rAf5c66Zow4?si=y3TRgC0EJgBFMfmX

Apologies for the bad video, but it seems that the throttle plate shaft in the throttle body is very leaky, any ideas if this is something that could keep the idle high?
Also, note that in the video you can see that I plugged (blue plug) the vacuum valve with the heater in it. does not change the idle very much when plugged - perhaps 200 rpm reduction.

Any ideas as to the shaft leaks and how tight that part of the vacuum circuit it should be?

thank you teeners

[rfinegan]

can you feel the play in the throttle shaft? Are the plates sticking or staying open? this was the symptoms of my shaft before adding bushings to it. Mine did not change the idea speed that much. but smooth and did not stick
Timing adds to the faster RPMS
Idle mixture on ECU adds faster RPS
Aux Auxiliary Air Regulator valve AAR ( this is its job)
Vacuum leaks

ALSO: be sure the decal valve is not staying open and keeping the idle high ( a simply unplug and cap the hose test will let you know)

[ctc911ctc]

can you feel the play in the throttle shaft? Are the plates sticking or staying open? this was the symptoms of my shaft before adding bushings to it. Mine did not change the idea speed that much. but smooth and did not stick
Timing adds to the faster RPMS
Idle mixture on ECU adds faster RPS
Aux Auxiliary Air Regulator valve AAR ( this is its job)
Vacuum leaks

ALSO: be sure the decal valve is not staying open and keeping the idle high ( a simply unplug and cap the hose test will let you know)

Thank you for the thoughts, I have not touched the ECU, will do that next, also I do not remember any play, though there was a great deal of smoke coming through, will check.

I have plugged the AAR hose with little change (once it is warmed)

Will take a look at the shaft play and the ECU,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)