New Rotors and Calipers, Parts/tool list - missing anything? Options

[FlacaProductions]

Greetings,

Gathering parts and knowledge to put new rotors and calipers on my 74 2.0. I’ve read a lot of threads and I think I have a pretty good grip of the process.

What am I missing? Still need/don’t need?

I have the PMB kit coming which is:
Rebuilt OEM Calipers
pre-loaded with PMB-C Ceramic Brake Pads
DirectFit Brake Pad Hardware
Sebro rotors front and rear
PMB stainless lines
bearings for all 4 wheels
front seals

I have:
-Motiv power bleeder
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-Bleeder/line caps

Thinking Swepco Moly 101 for grease (how much do I need?)

Do I need?:
-Speedbleeders? I think yes.
If still possible, should I have PMB install them so they’re good to go? If not, what’s the best source? Which part number? Are there different manufacturers?

-A bearing/race tool or can I count on using the old races to drive in the new ones? Figuring an Amazon or Harbor Freight version will be good enough for me.

-seal remover for the front seals? source?

-new front bearing caps? (am i going to screw these up on removal?)

Thank you!

[fiacra]

You don't need anything special to pull the seals. A screwdriver will do. I use a seal puller, but that's only because I have it. You can cut the old race and use it to drive in the new race. I use seal/race drivers, again only because I have them. Here's an example:

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-...iece-63261.html

I think PMB will not install bleeder screws before shipping. They can break off during shipping and that will create a migraine level headache. They specifically require you remove them before shipping your old calipers to them. You can get speed bleeders from them and install them yourself. I've never used them so I have no informed opinion on them. The Motiv pressure bleeder is awesome. If you haven't used it before make sure you have the right adapter. No need to pressurize above 5 psi. I didn't see new soft lines on your list. Now is the time since you will already have the system open. Get them from PMB as well. Reusing the caps is fine if they are in good condition. You can get them off without buggering them up. I use the Rick Higgins method (from the "Bug Me" videos he did). He uses the billy bar from the jack, but you can use a socket extension. Place it long ways behind the lip on the cap and then hit it with a mallet. The cap pops free and you can easily take it off then. Hard to describe, but you are not using the tip of the extension, rather laying it length wise on the cap so the shaft is perpendicular to the wheel. You can also just walk it off with giant channel locks, but freeing it first using this method has always worked well for me. You don't need much of the Swepco Moly 101. Less than half a tube if I remember correctly. I put the bearings in a heavy ziploc bag, add the grease, remove the air, seal the top and then squish it in. You can use your gloved hands, but it is messier that way. I put the open tube in a heavy ziploc bag to keep it clean. I've never used a bearing packing tool, but that is also an option. Make sure you have a good flare wrench as well. That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

I'll be a contrarian here and say you don't need someone to teach you in person. I recall that Ian did a video on this, so that would be worth a viewing. I know you've wrenched on your car enough to have the mechanical skills to do this. I would put the front wheel bearings, brakes, rotors and soft lines on the beginner end of the spectrum rather than calling it an advanced task. Maybe that's the Dunning Kruger effect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I think you've got this. In my opinion a torque wrench is a part of a basic tool set, which I'm sure you already have. You already know to ask questions if you run into problems.