New Rotors and Calipers, Parts/tool list - missing anything? Options

[FlacaProductions]

Greetings,

Gathering parts and knowledge to put new rotors and calipers on my 74 2.0. I’ve read a lot of threads and I think I have a pretty good grip of the process.

What am I missing? Still need/don’t need?

I have the PMB kit coming which is:
Rebuilt OEM Calipers
pre-loaded with PMB-C Ceramic Brake Pads
DirectFit Brake Pad Hardware
Sebro rotors front and rear
PMB stainless lines
bearings for all 4 wheels
front seals

I have:
-Motiv power bleeder
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-Bleeder/line caps

Thinking Swepco Moly 101 for grease (how much do I need?)

Do I need?:
-Speedbleeders? I think yes.
If still possible, should I have PMB install them so they’re good to go? If not, what’s the best source? Which part number? Are there different manufacturers?

-A bearing/race tool or can I count on using the old races to drive in the new ones? Figuring an Amazon or Harbor Freight version will be good enough for me.

-seal remover for the front seals? source?

-new front bearing caps? (am i going to screw these up on removal?)

Thank you!

[technicalninja]

Here's a couple more...

The amount of grease between the two bearings and in the cap can cause issues.

The "reason" for the extra grease is during a failure and overheat of a bearing it will hopefully create flow by liquefying the additional grease thus continuing to lubricate the hot bearing.

I'm not so sure that it happens this way.
I've never seen the internal extra grease be dirty. It always looks brand new, even on stuff that's gone 100K. Even on stuff that had burned up bearings.

I've serviced hundreds of this style front wheel bearing.

What I HAVE seen is if you OVERFILL the center housing and cap it can "pressurize" the space to the point of popping the cap off or blowing the seal out of its bore.

This is extremely messy!

I'd bet it would work FINE without any grease in the center section or cap but I'm still conservative enough to waste extra grease in the cavities.

Bout 50% is all I'll fill them.

One place I will intentionally over-fill is the recess between the inboard bearing and the seal. I'll pack the inside of the seal as well. The seal DOES require grease, and many folks put them in dry.

As for adjustment: first of all, the Allen key lockable nut should be Federal law...
And I'm not one for government mandates.
It's so much easier to deal with versus castle nut/castle lock and cotter pin and it can be more precise.

You will find lots of ways and suggestions on adjusting them.
This is mine and this will work on anything with this style of adjustable bearing.

I'll remove the center cap of the wheel and the bearing cap. The wheel itself is still bolted to the rotor/hub. front raised/wheel off ground. Tighten nut and spin tire. Check play. Modify adjustments so you can see exactly when you lose the play (wiggle top and bottom of wheel laterally).

Adjust to moment it loses play, lock it down, go drive car 5 miles to seat/initial run in.

Raise car, re-check play. Completely normal to have some. Re-adjust to zero play.

Lather, rinse, repeat...

Each time I'd go further
Second re-check at 50.
If that had more play, then again.

I'd expect to quickly reach "no further adjustment needed". If every time I checked, I had more play I'd take it back apart to see WTF.

Important to fully seat the bearing races in the hub. Non seated races might do weird wheel bearing adjusting things. I can tell when the races go "solid" by how the hammer and driver react. Gets solid feeling and "rings" when you strike it.

At some point it should stop gaining play and you have fully adjusted without ever over-tightening.

Me, I know the basic "feel" for how much pre-load a new bearing required. I'd go a SMALL amount tighter than "no play" and not expect issues.

Re-using old bearings (that had already been bedded in) I'd STOP at 1-2 degrees past no-play.

A car with a tiny little click of play is MUCH better than a car with slightly over-tightened bearings in my book.

You cannot accurately feel the play without installing the tire/wheel IMO.