Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread Options

[friethmiller]

[A softball question for the Ninja and/or others]

This is the cam card that came with my 2357 engine, which was originally built by Rimco/Fat (long block) a few years ago. Can someone explain why with an intake/exhaust of 448, the lift was only set to 327 degrees? I'm about to rebuild my motor and a lot of focus will be directed at piston "deck clearance" and the valve train geometry that wasn't set correctly. Thanks.

[technicalninja]

If/when you get around to ceracoating things, as technicalninja says, things need to be clean. And even new parts need to get a good "grip" on the parts. For example, mask off the piston (except for the crown) and hit it with a media (like aluminum oxide in a smaller grit). Then use a small spray gun or maybe an airbrush (use what you have) to apply the coating before you bake it.

About that lower oil scraper ring that is in the piston pin area. My above post has a photo of how it's pinned to prevent it from rotating into the piston pin area. However, maybe someone else knows if a gapless/total seal type ring can be used instead of the pin? Maybe give Keith Black a call about what to use in that lower ring groove?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif) Sounds like "a clean" like what's needed for electroplating. I've done that. I spent 95% of my time cleaning and 5% actually plating.

Yep, clean, bake, clean again, bake and so on. Pretty quickly the "cleaning" is using acetone and doesn't look like it's doing anything. The baking "outgasses" the aluminum.
Most cylinder heads you're screwed on as they are not new, and they take a BUNCH of cleaning. Brand new stuff or ferrous is far easier to get clean.

Lots of videos on YouTube. "Air dry no bake" stuff is available. I don't fully trust it yet.

You probably want that oven "separate" from your house.

It will STINK and your wife will go Ballistic!

That 1200 sq ft shop would be ideal...
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