Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread Options

[friethmiller]

[A softball question for the Ninja and/or others]

This is the cam card that came with my 2357 engine, which was originally built by Rimco/Fat (long block) a few years ago. Can someone explain why with an intake/exhaust of 448, the lift was only set to 327 degrees? I'm about to rebuild my motor and a lot of focus will be directed at piston "deck clearance" and the valve train geometry that wasn't set correctly. Thanks.

[technicalninja]

Normal quench, .040"thick,96mm bore is 7.2 ccs
.085" is close to 15 ccs
60+15+1 = 76

Swept of 593.5
Clearance 76.0
7.81
+ 1
Comp Ra 8.81

And ZERO quench at all.

Add bad cam choice.

There you go...
$$$$ and low power

You have pistons at reasonable heights for a build. Keeping the KBs might be possible.
I don't believe your heads have been fly cut. (valves are "deepest" now).
Both of these are good!

Next for me would be piston to bore measurements. Those KBs can be run tight.
I'd run loose in their suggested range. Just guessing I'd say "around 2 thou"

I'd take the valves out of the heads, clean them up, and hand lap the valves.

One of the things I e-mailed EMW was compression height of those. I have it somewhere. This is basically height from pin centerline to top of piston.
I need that and same info on the JEs too.

I sort of expect by the time quench is right and the proper (larger) profile cam is selected you are going to NEED the valve eyebrows in the piston tops.
You've GOT all of the BIG, big stroke, big valves, big compression.

I'd also try to get down to a single shim at the base.
I don't like stacking those.


Did FAT supply those pistons?

[friethmiller]

Did FAT supply those pistons?

Yes, crank, cam, pistons, rod, etc