Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread |
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Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread |
friethmiller |
Dec 31 2024, 12:12 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 751 Joined: 10-February 19 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 22,863 Region Association: Southwest Region |
[A softball question for the Ninja and/or others]
This is the cam card that came with my 2357 engine, which was originally built by Rimco/Fat (long block) a few years ago. Can someone explain why with an intake/exhaust of 448, the lift was only set to 327 degrees? I'm about to rebuild my motor and a lot of focus will be directed at piston "deck clearance" and the valve train geometry that wasn't set correctly. Thanks. |
technicalninja |
Jan 5 2025, 03:39 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,377 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif) Used a digital micrometer on all piston skirts, 90 degrees from and on-level with the pins, and got 95.925 mm (3.7765748 in). Next, I zeroed the dial-bore gauge to 95.925mm on the micrometer (in vise). Tested all cylinders at the 12-6 o’clock position. Got a P to W gap of .0025in - .003in depending on the cylinder. This is for the folks reading along... Fred did something here that ALL machinist do! Beginners almost always check piston with a mic and the bore with an internal dial caliper. They then try to take the difference between two separate tools. Fred zeroed his dial bore gauge to the mic (in a vise! It always takes a vice for me too). He then used the bore gauge to check clearance. He IS using a single tool to determine his measurement! Even a cheap bottom of the line bore gauge is FREAKING ACCURATE when used in this manner. I've had to give this "use one tool for measurements" speech many. many times... Fred did that shit automatically! It's HALF the battle! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) The process he used and his uber accurate mic means his .0025-.003 measurements will be stupid close... I believe him and most of the time I wonder "are they measuring correctly?" Now, he did make a beginner mistake... I test the cylinders at all different angles. I don't intentionally choose one clocking. I'll watch my needle to get a feel for the circle. Taper and concentricity (roundness) are very important! If I vary more than .0005, I want to straighten that out. Power honing, on a real machine that holds the stones in a micrometer style base CAN slightly correct taper and out of round. Sprung stones or a berry hone don't correct shit! |
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