1976 fuel injection questions Options

[914incali]

Picked up a 76 out of texas that had been converted to single carb that just doesn't run very well. I decided to convert back to original FI, essentially everything is gone and I am working on understanding the system. I guess my first question is where does the fuel pump draw power from? there is a single black wire underneath the fuel tank that has no power to it but all the relays have been removed and Im waiting on those from pelican

[emerygt350]

You are all good with that butterfly. That is how they look. And yes the suction will be very strong on that idle circuit. Don't worry about sucking anything in through the idle port. As long as you let it set up it won't go anywhere. Using a little bit of electrical tape on the tip of the idle screw is probably better for you anyway. I use the silicon as I know exactly what is going on in my car. It just sits there until I pry it out with a dental pick.

My suggestion is pull that idle screw out, you will see a rounded portion at the top. Add a little electrical tape to that (avoiding the threads of course) and see if that lets you get the idle to where you need it.

It's been a long time since I read through this thread, are you still using the original dizzy? Have you checked the advance at idle? If it is original sometimes those weights get stuck and the mechanical advance doesn't entirely go away at idle and you can end up with high idle not realizing it is advance causing it.

[Ron914]

You are all good with that butterfly. That is how they look. And yes the suction will be very strong on that idle circuit. Don't worry about sucking anything in through the idle port. As long as you let it set up it won't go anywhere. Using a little bit of electrical tape on the tip of the idle screw is probably better for you anyway. I use the silicon as I know exactly what is going on in my car. It just sits there until I pry it out with a dental pick.

My suggestion is pull that idle screw out, you will see a rounded portion at the top. Add a little electrical tape to that (avoiding the threads of course) and see if that lets you get the idle to where you need it.

It's been a long time since I read through this thread, are you still using the original dizzy? Have you checked the advance at idle? If it is original sometimes those weights get stuck and the mechanical advance doesn't entirely go away at idle and you can end up with high idle not realizing it is advance causing it.

Thanks for the info on the butterfly I like the electrical tape since it seems like that is the problem it really has little effect on the idle when I screw it in . I have taken it apart and cleaned the throttle body ,new gaskets ( except for those butterfly shaft seals I've seen mention of) and a new TPS board . I have the original dizzy and I checked the weights and when I blew through the advance hose the weights moved but I will check this again . If the electrical tape helps my idle problem does this indicate I need a new/rebuilt TB ?
My timing seems pretty good but that is another small issue as after installing the motor we found that the one and only red mark on the fan does not show in the v notch and I don't understand why also the air injection pump I had to install covers the viewing hole so I have to remove it each time I want to check .Another member told me I could drill a hole in the rear metal shroud and probably see the mark on the flywheel but I really don't want to drill a hole in the shroud .However the car does run well where I have the timing set now so if I could just get the idle correct I think I could get past the smog test .
Ron