crank no start perplexed, what else Options

[Wew]

Hi all,

I have read and done a bunch of research and still no luck getting my ride to turn over.

1973 2.0 with fuel injection. Has a 2056 build with a performance cam. (still within parameters for a fuel injected car)

Battery at 12.6 Volts
Throttle body serviced
Compression: 130 all four cylinders
Spark: yes
Timing: checked and set at 0 TDC. (will set @ 27BTDC at 3500rpm when I can get it to run)
123 ignition rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire.
Fuel pressure 28 PSI
Checked injectors and they are squirting fuel.
I do not have the proper CHT which I believe should measure at 1300 ohms.
The one I have measures at 2700 ohms.
I had checked the MPS and if memory serves me right it held air for quite a long time at 17 or 20 psi???? I could be wrong on this as this has been a while.
Have checked for vacuum leaks and done a smoke test when car was running and no leaks found.
All new vacuum lines with clamps.
The car would drive fire right up cold and idle rough. It would buck under load and also didn't start if it was warm.

What changed?

I took out the Throttle body and saw fuel in the plenum which I believe is fuel from the cold start injector.
In all my infinite wisdom I ended up messing around with the throttle position sensor and thought I got it back to its correct setting using one of those line testers like Gary Cotton has used in his video. Maybe I am screwing this up but I don't think so..
I also realized that I had the 123ignition vacuum port connected to my retard side (rear) on the throttle body. (advance was plugged). I changed this and put the smaller vacuum line on the 123 ignition and attached to the advanced port on (front) of the throttle body.
Now I get no love... It just cranks and cranks but will not start. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

I am aware that this is the incorrect CHT. It doesn't seem like these are available in the 1973 version any longer. Any solutions or mods I will gladly take on. Was wondering about one of those potentiometer to draw down the ohms from 2700 to 1300 if that is possible. If so, any specific recommendations on what you used and worked would be appreciated.
Maybe I beat up the TPS. I had purchased it new from 914 rubber and has gotten very little use other than me messing around with it and the short stops and starts trying to get it going. I have attached a couple of pictures.
I don't want to just start throwing parts at this.. It has to be something I did.
Where I am at is I can't even try and make it run better now because it won't even start.
Ugh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have also included a link to a youtube video I shot prior to changing the vacuum hose from retard to advance. You will see it idles o.k and then when I accelerate it gets sticky and remains at a higher idle. I have checked the throttle cable and it is not wrapped around the clutch cable.
If I had my druthers I would go back to what it was, but again it would flatten out or buck when I would accelerate and hard start once warm.


I lack the intuitive mechanical skills that many other have on this site and am hopeful I can get some advice on next steps.

Much appreciated.

Gary


https://youtube.com/shorts/idT2vM8uaOg?si=MixjnXL2zrQaNrnV

[ClayPerrine]

I am going to repeat a piece of wisdom I got from my father when I was 17. I changed the carburetor on my 69 Firebird, and was trying to get it to start. When he showed up from work, I was busily jacking with the timing. He asked me what I was doing. I told him I replaced the carb and now it wouldn't start. He asked me why I was messing with the timing. It was fine when I started changing the carb. Then he said "What was the last thing you f*cked with?" Now my father normally didn't swear. But he would when he wanted you to remember it.

So now I am going to ask you.. "What was the last thing you f*cked with?"



I would suggest checking the timing first. Zero degrees is way to retarded to get the car to start. If you are still running points, you can static time it to 9 degrees (L-Jet cars were timed to 8.5 degrees) and that should get the timing close enough to start.

To static time an engine, set the timing mark on the fan to 8.5 degrees. Then disconnect the green wire from the coil, and hook it to a test light. Hook the other end of the test light to the positive battery post. Rotate the distributor until the light comes on, then back it up until the light goes out. Lock down the distributor.

Hope that helps you out.