crank no start perplexed, what else Options

[Wew]

Hi all,

I have read and done a bunch of research and still no luck getting my ride to turn over.

1973 2.0 with fuel injection. Has a 2056 build with a performance cam. (still within parameters for a fuel injected car)

Battery at 12.6 Volts
Throttle body serviced
Compression: 130 all four cylinders
Spark: yes
Timing: checked and set at 0 TDC. (will set @ 27BTDC at 3500rpm when I can get it to run)
123 ignition rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire.
Fuel pressure 28 PSI
Checked injectors and they are squirting fuel.
I do not have the proper CHT which I believe should measure at 1300 ohms.
The one I have measures at 2700 ohms.
I had checked the MPS and if memory serves me right it held air for quite a long time at 17 or 20 psi???? I could be wrong on this as this has been a while.
Have checked for vacuum leaks and done a smoke test when car was running and no leaks found.
All new vacuum lines with clamps.
The car would drive fire right up cold and idle rough. It would buck under load and also didn't start if it was warm.

What changed?

I took out the Throttle body and saw fuel in the plenum which I believe is fuel from the cold start injector.
In all my infinite wisdom I ended up messing around with the throttle position sensor and thought I got it back to its correct setting using one of those line testers like Gary Cotton has used in his video. Maybe I am screwing this up but I don't think so..
I also realized that I had the 123ignition vacuum port connected to my retard side (rear) on the throttle body. (advance was plugged). I changed this and put the smaller vacuum line on the 123 ignition and attached to the advanced port on (front) of the throttle body.
Now I get no love... It just cranks and cranks but will not start. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

I am aware that this is the incorrect CHT. It doesn't seem like these are available in the 1973 version any longer. Any solutions or mods I will gladly take on. Was wondering about one of those potentiometer to draw down the ohms from 2700 to 1300 if that is possible. If so, any specific recommendations on what you used and worked would be appreciated.
Maybe I beat up the TPS. I had purchased it new from 914 rubber and has gotten very little use other than me messing around with it and the short stops and starts trying to get it going. I have attached a couple of pictures.
I don't want to just start throwing parts at this.. It has to be something I did.
Where I am at is I can't even try and make it run better now because it won't even start.
Ugh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have also included a link to a youtube video I shot prior to changing the vacuum hose from retard to advance. You will see it idles o.k and then when I accelerate it gets sticky and remains at a higher idle. I have checked the throttle cable and it is not wrapped around the clutch cable.
If I had my druthers I would go back to what it was, but again it would flatten out or buck when I would accelerate and hard start once warm.


I lack the intuitive mechanical skills that many other have on this site and am hopeful I can get some advice on next steps.

Much appreciated.

Gary


https://youtube.com/shorts/idT2vM8uaOg?si=MixjnXL2zrQaNrnV

[Wew]

Thanks for the input.
I have checked spark and have it on all 4 cylinders.
I did remove all 4 plugs and yes there was some black soot on all 4 plugs. Spark plugs are fairly new within 3 months with very little running time. Maybe half hour.
I cleaned all four of the plugs wiping soot away and used fine sand paper to clean off any unseen goop that could hinder spark.
I do have the ballast resistor that measures 270 ohms of resistance. Since the CHT already measures at 2500 and if I add the ballast resistor it increases the resistance another 270. My understanding is I want the resistance to go down to 1300 ohms. How do I accomplish this?

Optima red battery (4 years old) is losing voltage quickly to 11.9. This is the 2nd time in the last 3 days I have had to charge it to get back up to 12.6volts. After cranking on it for an afternoon I measured it and it dropped to 11.90 again Based on this I think it’s time for a new battery. Honestly I haven’t been impressed with the battery and am wondering what you all prefer?
So next steps tomorrow are
1. New battery
2. Someone please confirm I am setting the 123 ignition properly.
3. Check all vacuum and connections.
4. Hope someone responds on how to lower the resistance on the CHT (2500 current and want to reduce to 1300) How I measure the CHT is ohm meter (red wire) on connection end that would plug into the wire that goes to the ecu. The black wire goes on the negative side of the battery. This is how I am getting my readings.
I believe the above shows I don’t have an open circuit, although I could be wrong and open to public embarrassment and humiliation. .
Will also check fuel filter, although I am getting fuel to all four injectors and fuel pressure is at 28 psi, and the pressure drops to 20psi fairly quickly after I quit cranking the engine and stays there for a couple of minutes until it starts its descent to zero.

Thanks again!