Another help me get this engine started! Thread Options

[Literati914]

1.7 that was supposedly rebuilt just before I purchased the project approx 7 year ago. Never started before. D-jet. Electronic unit replacing the orig. points. Engine currently installed in the engine bay. I primed the oil system the other day and now the idiot light will go out after a couple seconds of cranking.

About the 3rd time or so of trying to start the engine.. it seemed to have lit, it only lasted about 2 seconds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) but it felt good, like it wouldn’t take long. Unfortunately it’s not done much but turn over strong since then. Sometimes it’ll do a little shuffle like it’s gonna start, but no.

I checked the plugs and they have spark, they seemed slightly damp at the electrodes, I also pulled the little small extra bolt on the fuel rail at the driver’s side to see if fuel was making it to the injectors and yes it is apparently.

This 1.7 has a fan with 2 markings… a “0” and an “|” …. Haynes says it’s supposed to have 3 markings but mine does not. If I insert a screwdriver into #1 cylinder and manually bring the fan around via a wrench on the alternator bolt (pulling it towards me from the driver’s side).. I come to the “|” first, before the piston is completely at the top. So I’m speculating that “|” is 5degrees btdc . And this is the mark I’m using to set my distributor. Does that sound right?

[Literati914]

..and now that I look at it... where is your vacuum retard line headed? Ported vacuum on the TB or manifold vacuum on the TB. It needs to be on manifold vacuum ..

Hey Emory can you explain what you meant with the above statement? My distributor has two vacuum ports .. the one towards the front of the car (back side of the canister) is connected to the port on the front side of the TB. The vacuum line at the rear of the TB is going to the canister port that faces the back of the car (front side of the canister). I verified that from a George Hussey video describing/explaining components of a d-jet 1.7.

There are two sets of points. There is the set you are looking at, and then inside there are the trigger points that trigger the injectors.

Good that it started on fluid. Now you know it's either a weak spark (doubt it) or a fuel issue.

Did you verify the trigger points are hooked up?

My ignition is an electronic unit, original points were replaced by the previous owner. The D-jet wiring plug is engaged at the side of the distributor. Is it firing the injectors? , I'm not sure.. Can I maybe pull the electrical input at the injector(s) and probe it with an electrical test light while cranking to see if the light flashes?

[emerygt350]

..and now that I look at it... where is your vacuum retard line headed? Ported vacuum on the TB or manifold vacuum on the TB. It needs to be on manifold vacuum ..

Hey Emory can you explain what you meant with the above statement? My distributor has two vacuum ports .. the one towards the front of the car (back side of the canister) is connected to the port on the front side of the TB. The vacuum line at the rear of the TB is going to the canister port that faces the back of the car (front side of the canister). I verified that from a George Hussey video describing/explaining components of a d-jet 1.7.

There are two sets of points. There is the set you are looking at, and then inside there are the trigger points that trigger the injectors.

Good that it started on fluid. Now you know it's either a weak spark (doubt it) or a fuel issue.

Did you verify the trigger points are hooked up?

My ignition is an electronic unit, original points were replaced by the previous owner. The D-jet wiring plug is engaged at the side of the distributor. Is it firing the injectors? , I'm not sure.. Can I maybe pull the electrical input at the injector(s) and probe it with an electrical test light while cranking to see if the light flashes?

Yes, that would tell you. The trigger points are those wires you are describing and they are no longer available, and they are a wear item, so they do start causing problems. There are a couple of fun ways to determine if all is well in injector land. The noid light as mentioned is easiest. You could just pull an injector and watch but I hate mucking with those gaskets and the poor system for plumbing the injectors. Best to leave them be for as long as possible.

One thing you should know is that it is bank fire. So 2 injectors fire at the same time. There are only two pulses. I think it's 1,3 and 4,2 but somebody will correct me if I am wrong. So if you see a signal at 1 and 2 then you know the trigger points are doing their thing.

If you just want to hear if the injectors are actually doing their job, turn the key to the on position without starting the motor and move the throttle. As the TPS moves it will give the injectors a little extra kick. You will hear it in the engine bay if the injectors are firing. This is separate from the trigger points.

As far as the ports go, I am a 2.0 djet guy. Haven't played with the 1.7 tb
The port that has no vacuum on it when the engine is idling is for advance. The port with vacuum with the engine idling is for retard. But as I said, don't worry about that till you get the engine idling. At this point plug both.