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sdoolin |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 1-May 14 From: LouKY Member No.: 17,299 Region Association: None ![]() |
Rebuilding(ish) my 2056. On my first build I was able to achieve a compression ratio of very nearly 9.0:1. With this build, I am having to add .020 spacers below the jugs to get any measurable deck height in the jugs. I am calculating a compression ratio of 8.6:1.
Will I notice the loss in compression ratio? |
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sdoolin |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 1-May 14 From: LouKY Member No.: 17,299 Region Association: None ![]() |
Installed my brand new oil pressure test gauge (Harbor Freight) in the location of the OE pressure switch (which is remote from the normal case mounting location (you can see it in the pic a few posts back)). The line on the gauge is long enough that I can sit in the car and start/run it and see the gauge.
I am seeing 76 -78 psi of oil pressure at 2200 rpm. I'm not sure what is "normal", but for now I am going to call success and move on to fine tuning. I actually found a brand new OE oil pressure switch in one of my many boxes of spares, I'll install that. Previous owner installed an oil pressure gauge into the center console, but it has never worked so I imagine I'll finally fix that too. I will have questions because I'm no good with things that need wires to operate. Let it run for about 5 mins. Oil pressure stayed at 70+ psi. The passenger side carb "leads" the drivers' side quite a bit, so I need to synch things up, and spend some time with a timing light to verify ignition timing. I also noticed a small oil leak at the oil pressure relief valve, so I need to replace that crush washer. Thanks everyone as always for the assistance. Should have her on the road again in a week's time. Then I have a 1990 Honda RC30 to restore... |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 12th March 2025 - 02:32 PM |
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