Will not start after a 13-year hibernation, 1973 2.0 D-Jet Options

[Alden]

Ran well before storing in a dry shed.

Evaluated the fuel system and installed new:
fuel tank
fuel level sending unit
fuel tank screen
fuel filter
Cohline 2240 & Gates Barricade fuel hose
rebuilt Bosch 3 port fuel pump
(4) Standard Motor Products JF67 Injectors

Verified the stainless-steel tunnel and engine fuel lines are clear.

Applied 12 volts directly to the fuel pump to prime system. Fuel is circulating (can hear the gurgling of the return in the tank).

Ignition in the ON position the fuel pump primes (can hear running for 1-2 seconds).
Ignition in the START position fuel pump runs (verified with voltmeter, can't hear running due to engine cranking).

Ignition in the ON position apply throttle can hear fuel injectors click.

Engine will run with starting fluid.

Could it be fuel pressure? Fuel pressure regulator go bad from non-use or E10 fuel?
(E10 fuel destroyed my Cohline 2134 fuel hose and Bosch fuel pump)

Don't know if this could be a factor, sometimes in the START position, nothing, have to return to ON position and retry. Failing ignition switch?

What else should I look for?

Found a video from May 2017, started after sitting for 5 years.  Clip3.mov ( 2.42mb ) Number of downloads: 21
 Clip3.mov ( 2.42mb ) Number of downloads: 21

[Superhawk996]

Taking everything you said from post 27 as fact.

It seems there is something not right where the trigger point signal isn’t working to trigger while cranking .

Here’s a couple things to check:

1) Trigger points themselves - there is a common ground inside the trigger points that if it goes bad you’ll have no signal to either set of injectors. Pic below is what I found on a set I had. No bueno. Have you actually removed - inspected what you have to make sure you don’t have something like this going on?



2) Another possibility is the trigger points signal isn’t making it to the ECU. Bad wiring is a very real possibility.

3) ECU has gone south - not likely but can’t rule out at this stage

4) engine is cranking over too slowly? There is a minimum RPM the ECU needs to see from the trigger points - can’t remember off the top of my head but it’s something like 100 rpm’s. If you are trying to crank with a weak battery you could be cranking too slowly. Again not as likely but need you to rule this out. Is your battery topped up and spinning the engine with authority?

Items #1 & #2 are easily checked and verified with a DMM.

[Alden]

Taking everything you said from post 27 as fact.

It seems there is something not right where the trigger point signal isn’t working to trigger while cranking .

Here’s a couple things to check:

1) Trigger points themselves - there is a common ground inside the trigger points that if it goes bad you’ll have no signal to either set of injectors. Pic below is what I found on a set I had. No bueno. Have you actually removed - inspected what you have to make sure you don’t have something like this going on?



2) Another possibility is the trigger points signal isn’t making it to the ECU. Bad wiring is a very real possibility.

3) ECU has gone south - not likely but can’t rule out at this stage

4) engine is cranking over too slowly? There is a minimum RPM the ECU needs to see from the trigger points - can’t remember off the top of my head but it’s something like 100 rpm’s. If you are trying to crank with a weak battery you could be cranking too slowly. Again not as likely but need you to rule this out. Is your battery topped up and spinning the engine with authority?

Items #1 & #2 are easily checked and verified with a DMM.

For item #1, I should be able to show continuity from center pin to chassis ground?

For item #2, I have to disconnect the 25 pole connector at the ECU and run a continuity check to from the 25 pole connector to left and right pins of the distributor?
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#setups



Item #3, I have a spare ECU (from another troubleshooting session years ago, the issue ended up that my Python rebuilt fuel injector failed in the open position)

Item #4, Strong battery (group 75) from my C5 Corvette, put screw in posts on the side terminals and made it work. I've put a charge on it a few times.