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friethmiller |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 845 Joined: 10-February 19 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 22,863 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
My Red '74 (a.k.a Denise) is getting a return line but I'm having issues finding the right size return line hose to go between the tank and the SS line. I have a 5/16" (8mm) rubber hose that looks like it might work. Waited 4 days for Sierra Madre to ship a 7mm ID braided hose, which turned out to be > 8mm (just too loose). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I want to go with the 5/16" line but I really think both of these ends should be bubble flared. Has anyone done this? Anything to watch out for? Any other solutions here? I don't need these connections leaking or sliding off.
Also, I have a rubber washer on the return pipe and just a brass washer + screen in the feed. Is this normal? Can I use something like Curil T to help seal these connections? Thanks in advance. ![]() ![]() |
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technicalninja |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,523 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I would use a true circular hose clamp.
Early fuel injected Datsuns had FI clamps that are wonderful. I scrounged many... Don't use normal worm style clamps. As long as you can find the proper OD size a spring clamp works well too. Both of those lines right there have extremely low pressure and thus are not as critical as "between fuel pump and regulator". I wanted a beader set myself. Did some research a few years back. The Hawk is RIGHT! $200+ per size and I want 5. 1K+ worth of beaders would have marital consequences... Also, I have never found a hose to tube sealant that worked without damaging stuff down the road. Normally I use my spit to lubricate the hose before installation and, it seems to form a light seal by itself. Soap might do same thing better. |
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