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BillC |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 621 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I have an idle adjustment question for all you D-Jet gurus:
I can adjust the idle air screw on the throttle body so the car idles at 1600 RPM, and it will happily idle at 1600 all day long. If I turn in the screw just a little bit, like 1/4 turn, the car will slowly drop idle speed down slower and slower until it stalls. I can blip the throttle to keep it running, but it just wants to slow down and stall. This is all when the car is fully warmed up. How do I get the car to idle steady around 1000-1200 RPM? 1600 is just too high. Car is a '73 2.0 with factory D-Jet. I installed new Standard Products FJ67 injectors, and the fuel pressure is 29 psi. There are no leaks in the intake side, and the idle adjustment screw is about 2 turns out (so there's plenty of adjustment available in both directions). The MPS hasn't been messed with, and the ECU looks like the correct unit. All new vacuum lines, fuel lines, pump & filter, and fresh gas. New @JeffBowlsby engine and alternator wiring harnesses. Known issues: it has the wrong CHT sensor (it's the one that's commonly available) and I think the TPS board has worn traces. I finally found the right CHT and ballast resistor, and I also have a 914Rubber replacement TPS board, and I will install both of them when I get a chance. However, I don't think either of those should keep it from idling at a reasonable RPM. |
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emerygt350 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,858 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
You want it on the advance setting. If you have it on the retard setting you should switch to the rear port on the tb but I found the retard is awful on the 123.
However, I suspect this won't affect the idle, but you never know. I assume you timed it with the vacuum disconnected. |
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