Best Paint Stripping Method?, ::: In the Garage ::: Options

[CptTripps]

I've searched and can only find 'Media Blasting Vs. Acid Dip' threads, so I'm hoping to get some feedback on 'Garage Stripping' methods. For those of us taking the car down to bare metal, and re-painting it in the garage/driveway/basement (long story) is there a 'best way' to get it all off before filler/primer?

I used one of those spongy wheel things attached to a drill last night on the pass-front fender and it took about an hour. I CAN'T think of doing the entire car like that. I'm not looking to punk-out on the time thing, but It'd take me a few weeks of evenings to do it with the wheel thingy.

Should I go get a bunch of 60-Grit sand disks and go at it on the grinder at a low speed? That seemed awefull abrasive.

Is chemical stripping better? I tried some Jasco that I had left over from another job and it curtled the re-spray off pretty quick, but didn't seem to phase the second coat.

For the trunks, I'm just going to rough it up and prime/paint. But the rest of the body needs to come down to the shiney stuff.

Ideas/Suggestions/Stories of Peril and Dispair?

[Katmanken]

I like air powered dual action sanders.

Only car it wouldn't work on was my teener.

Seems the PO coated it in 3/16- 1/4 inch of layers of Saturn Yellow lacquer.paint. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)


The paint was so thick it cracked like the bottom of a dried up river bed. Rust stains were oozing from the cracks.
Stripper wouldn't touch it, the DA would melt the paint onto the sanding disk in about 15 seconds (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)

Things I do for a car with a good hell hole and longs. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)

Ended up using a paint scraper and a putty knife between the layers and layers of paint, followed by the DA and a bazillion sanding disks.

Now with the factory paint, a DA is the way to go.

Not keen on a torch. Heating the metal can cause it to begin to oxidize and rust. Hafta treat the back side of a weld ya know. Some people have success with it, but it's not my choice on a car with metal that will oxidize while you look at it.

Ken