Rear Brake Caliper Removal, This should be so simple... Options

[zoomCat]

Hi everybody! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wavey.gif)

I'm in the process of trying to resurrect my Sleeping Beauty from her slumber. She's been asleep for a few years. I've changed out the oil and gas and got her started; ran like crap but I figured I'd have to rebuild the carbs anyway.

I'm now trying to get the rear brake calipers off but I'm having some difficulty. This is kinda embarassing, since 1) all the descriptions I've found make it sound pretty simple, and 2) I've done it before.

So I start by taking my 11mm flare wrench and go to remove the brake line from the caliper and I can't get the wrench onto the flare nut. Huh? Aft of the hard line the control arm is in the way, and forward of the line is a boss on the caliper itself as shown below (i hope).

It would seem that I have to split the hard line from the flexible line at the control arm pivot. It that correct?

Oh, and this is a factory /6, does that matter?

(i was going to post some pictures of her when i get her out of the garage and cleaned up a bit, but i thought i'd get some brakes working first....)

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (zoomCat @ Jun 10 2005, 01:07 PM)

You'd loose 2mm of use when the inboard pad wore out first, so the outboard piston would never see more than 2mm or extra travel. If it works for Mr. Herzog, it would probably get me around the block safely.... So, is 5mm or 3mm enough to require longer studs? Or switching to steel nuts from the alloy?

2mm of rear brake pad is a LOT in any street car, and i don't think anyone preparing a track car would let it go anywhere near that point. if that's my cost, it's one i'm prepared to pay.

i had no qualms (or any lack of braking) at Willow Springs, Holtville (notoriously hard on brakes) and Riverside.

on my car, with Mahle alloys, the stock studs were close to too short. Fuchs might be a little thinner in the cup, but i don't have any here to check. IMO slightly longer studs are a good idea, because you'd have more choices on spacers, and no track car should use alloy nuts anyway.

slightly longer studs aren't much more expensive than the stockers...

1/8" aluminum plate should be readily available and none of the dimensions is especially critical. you can drill "big enough" holes for the studs with a drill press, the outside circle with a saber saw, and just a bit of time with a dogleg deburring tool should have you in the ball game quickly.