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ninefourteener |
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#1
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Perfectly Normal Guy :) ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,216 Joined: 3-June 03 From: St. Louis, MO Member No.: 779 ![]() |
I figure I ask questions about all of life's aspects here...... why not try this one?
I'm building my "dream" guitar..... this isn't some half-assed attempt at "fixin up" some old beater..... all the parts I've bought for it are brand new, or mint condition if I had to purchase old stuff. This includes all gold hardware.... Floyd Rose Lo-Pro trem, Gotoh tuners, string tree, pickup rings, knobs, switches, etc. Plus the body, the neck, etc..... So far, I'm up to nearly $600 in this thing..... just in parts alone. Its an Ibanez RG550 replica.... I'm stuffing it with 3 (yes, THREE) EMG Humbuckers... and even creating custom gold cavity cover plates out of reflective acrylic plexiglass for the back. ANYWAY....... My question is........ I bought the body from a Luthier in Brazil its a "marupa" body with a 1/4 inch thick "Angico" top..... this guy was really good, but then he disappeared off the planet, so I have no way to contact him. Apparently, he covers his guitar bodies with a "nitrocelulosic base" for shipping protection purposes. I'm ready to start routing, sanding, and building....... how the hell do I get the wood clear without sanding too much? I don't want to sand too deep if I don't have to. Is there a certain chemical I can use? I want to basically "strip" the wood clean, but not damage the wood, because I plan on staining/poly, etc. take a look at what I bought if it will help: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 |
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carr914 |
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#2
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Racer from Birth ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 119,197 Joined: 2-February 04 From: Tampa,FL Member No.: 1,623 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Don't spray the poly. I sell polys and you will get a better final product with a brush on product. My product ZAR is self leveling and can be applied with a foam brush or a very good quality china bristle brush. Do Not use a roller with a poly as it introduces bubbles into the poly. If you a brush or wipe-on product, DO NOT SHAKE the can. This introduces bubbles. Stir the product thoughly before and during your application. Steel wool between coats with oil based finish.Spray polys will be diluted versions of the original formula in order to get them to spray and will not have the Solids content that you need for durability. Also the tips on most sprays will be condusive to spitting droplets and there is more potential for the poly to sag and to have bubbles. We just upgraded to a better tip but I have not used it yet.Or you can use ZAR Wipe-On Finish with Tung Oil. The wipe-on Tung Oil will be far and away the easiest. It also has a richer look. I also want to comment on the distressing that you are doing and how that relates to your finish. Any distressing will show up more as gloss level goes up. Go to www.ugl.com for more info and a dealer locator.
T.C. |
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