Emissions problems .... |
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Emissions problems .... |
jsteele22 |
Sep 30 2005, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 727 Joined: 24-August 05 From: Colorado Springs, CO Member No.: 4,653 |
A few of my new friends in law enforcement convinced me to get my '76 2.0L registered, which means an emissions test. The PO had problems (back in '98) and the car hasn't been clean since then; that's one reason I had been putting this off. I've already replaced points, rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. Adjusted dwell (which I feel pretty sure about) and timing (which I'm less sure about). For the timing, I used the handy template from Pelican Parts website, and put a visible mark on the impeller. But its so hard to work through that viewport that I might be off by a little either way. Also, I ran 3 tanks of gas w/ injector cleaner (and *did* see some improvement during that time). I found that my decel valve did not work, and removed it. I had problems w/ the AAR wire shorting to ground, blowing a fuse, so I removed it. All of my vacuum hoses are new. And although my idle is still high (1146), I haven't been able to track down any leaks... The screw in the TB is all the way shut, and the knob on the FI box is all the way (oh jeez, which way was it ? - I think it was CW). I adjusted the valves before the RRC (about 1000) mi of driving. That (simultaneously w/ timing) made a major improvement, as two exhaust valves were too tight. Towards the end of the RRC I did a little spirited driving (awesome) and on the trip home pushed kinda hard up a pass. Since then the engine has a slight roughness, so maybe valves need re-adjusting. Anyway, the car idles at 1146 RPM, and the numbers there are : HC 1156 PPM (limit 600) and CO % 3.73 (limit 3.50). Of course, like an idiot, I didn't get the car fully warmed up before (it takes like 15 minutes of serious driving). Anyway, my main goal right now is to get the thing to pass, fast and cheap. Failing that, if I put $75 into diagnosing the problem (at a legit business) I can get a waiver. I won't need to do this again, as my county is cancelling its emissions program in Dec. '06 My other goal is to know what's wrong. I just got the car, and I know its burning a little oil (rings and/or valve guides) so I'm deciding how to proceed : I'm toying w/ a mild Subaru swap if I can do it cheap enough... Any hints appreciated.... |
Cap'n Krusty |
Sep 30 2005, 12:03 PM
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#2
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
You have to have an AAR to get the idle down, unless you completely block the port. Is this an air pump car? You need that to dilute the exhaust. Is it an EGR car? You'll need that to work to keep the combustion temps down. Is this a Cat equipped car? You need that to keep the HCs and CO down. Adjust the valves to .016" (that'll lower the HCs), be sure the dwell is at 47 +/- 3 degrees, and the timing right on. I dunno why you had to make new timing marks, they're right on the fan. Set the idle mixture screw to the midpoint. Pretest the car, and adjust then idle mixture and speed to the cleanest/best idle. RUN REGULAR (87 OCTANE) FUEL FOR THE TEST!!!!!!
BTW, the whole "build date" thing is a bogus waste of time. Another case iof misinformation made fact by it's appearance on the internet. Even if it weren't, it only applied in CA to cars that were ACTUALLY TESTED before the deadline, which is nearly a year ago. The MY is whatever your state says it is, and they ain't gonna change it just 'cause you want 'em to. The Cap'n |
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