Emissions problems .... Options

[jsteele22]

A few of my new friends in law enforcement convinced me to get my '76 2.0L registered, which means an emissions test. The PO had problems (back in '98) and the car hasn't been clean since then; that's one reason I had been putting this off.

I've already replaced points, rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. Adjusted dwell (which I feel pretty sure about) and timing (which I'm less sure about). For the timing, I used the handy template from Pelican Parts website, and put a visible mark on the impeller. But its so hard to work through that viewport that I might be off by a little either way.

Also, I ran 3 tanks of gas w/ injector cleaner (and *did* see some improvement during that time). I found that my decel valve did not work, and removed it. I had problems w/ the AAR wire shorting to ground, blowing a fuse, so I removed it. All of my vacuum hoses are new. And although my idle is still high (1146), I haven't been able to track down any leaks... The screw in the TB is all the way shut, and the knob on the FI box is all the way (oh jeez, which way was it ? - I think it was CW).

I adjusted the valves before the RRC (about 1000) mi of driving. That (simultaneously w/ timing) made a major improvement, as two exhaust valves were too tight. Towards the end of the RRC I did a little spirited driving (awesome) and on the trip home pushed kinda hard up a pass. Since then the engine has a slight roughness, so maybe valves need re-adjusting.

Anyway, the car idles at 1146 RPM, and the numbers there are : HC 1156 PPM (limit 600) and CO % 3.73 (limit 3.50). Of course, like an idiot, I didn't get the car fully warmed up before (it takes like 15 minutes of serious driving).





Anyway, my main goal right now is to get the thing to pass, fast and cheap. Failing that, if I put $75 into diagnosing the problem (at a legit business) I can get a waiver.
I won't need to do this again, as my county is cancelling its emissions program in Dec. '06

My other goal is to know what's wrong. I just got the car, and I know its burning a little oil (rings and/or valve guides) so I'm deciding how to proceed : I'm toying w/ a mild Subaru swap if I can do it cheap enough...


Any hints appreciated....

[jsteele22]

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Sep 30 2005, 06:01 PM)

Good to have freinds noting oil smoke and valve noise. You didn't acknowledge the valve noise, but I'd check the valve clearance again, if they have changed drastically since last adjustment, then someting ain't right in the the valve train. This can cause burning oil (worn valve guides) and screw up the vacuum "signal' that helps control the D-Jet system. So if your valves are going bad, get the waiver and save for a rebuild. Might be interesting to do compression test both before and after a valve adjust. Also if you wait until a bad valve fails totally, you may end up scrapping the head, pistons cylinder etc... I hate it when valves break, constantly changing valve clearance (ie getting tighter) means the valve is stretching, valve head is wearing, or the seat is receding. Lossening valves mean the seat might be dancing around or the cam is going flat. Maybe the rocker adjusters are getting worn out, check their profile

Yeah, it is good to have friends notice these things. I've never actually seen the smoke myself, and I guess I haven't really learned what normal vs. excessive valve noise is. But I do think the valves are out of adjustment. Before the RRC I adjusted them (first time) and the engine ran much smoother. On the return from RRC, after climbing Vail pass, it seemed to start running rough again. Yesterday I noted that cylinder 3 isn't running very strong (pulled spark wire, no change). It was running okay before, so I'm guessing this one has a valve that's off. I think I'll get in there today and set all 4 to .016", as the Cap'n suggested.

Also I found that my timing was pretty far off, due to, well, user error. I think the idiot who set the timing last time forgot to do so at 3500 RPM, not idle. Made a difference.

Question about the distributor advance/retard : Previously, I had the vac line going to the back side of the diaphram (closer to spark wires). After setting the timing (correctly), I found that the engine sputtered and nearly died under load (but not at high RPM while revving in neutral). So I switched the line to the front side of the diaphragm (away from spark wires) and it ran much better. At RRC I peeked at a few cars (all earlier models) and saw hoses connected to both. What is the correct hookup for a 1976 2.0L D-jet ?

Another idea I had is that since some component of the high HC is probably due to burning oil, I'm gonna switch to SAE 40 dino + Lucas oil stabilizer, instead of 5W30 synthetic. If I can cut down on the leakage, it should clean up some. Again, my main goal right now is to pass or get a waiver; then I'll have to decide how to procede w/ this engine.

I spent most of the day yesterday replacing th GD fuel filter. Thought I'd something quick and easy before my morning coffee. Coaxed the fuel pump/filter out of the ample "easy access" hatch in the front trunk (would it kill 'em to make it one inch larger ???), and the crispy, crackly fuel hose started getting soaked. No problem : just replace it. After several tries, I got some 7/16" hose that fit the puel pump nicely. I got a generic FRAM filter at flaps and it had a 5/16" inlet. No problem, just fit up an adapter. Turns out, that adapter does not exist on this planet. At least not at any of the 7 stores I checked. Ended up buying a brass fitting w/ lots of meat and machined the thing myself. Not beautiful, but it works. Anyway, I'm still waiting for the last of the fumes to evaporate, but I think the car is smelling (a little) better than before.