Emissions problems .... Options

[jsteele22]

A few of my new friends in law enforcement convinced me to get my '76 2.0L registered, which means an emissions test. The PO had problems (back in '98) and the car hasn't been clean since then; that's one reason I had been putting this off.

I've already replaced points, rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. Adjusted dwell (which I feel pretty sure about) and timing (which I'm less sure about). For the timing, I used the handy template from Pelican Parts website, and put a visible mark on the impeller. But its so hard to work through that viewport that I might be off by a little either way.

Also, I ran 3 tanks of gas w/ injector cleaner (and *did* see some improvement during that time). I found that my decel valve did not work, and removed it. I had problems w/ the AAR wire shorting to ground, blowing a fuse, so I removed it. All of my vacuum hoses are new. And although my idle is still high (1146), I haven't been able to track down any leaks... The screw in the TB is all the way shut, and the knob on the FI box is all the way (oh jeez, which way was it ? - I think it was CW).

I adjusted the valves before the RRC (about 1000) mi of driving. That (simultaneously w/ timing) made a major improvement, as two exhaust valves were too tight. Towards the end of the RRC I did a little spirited driving (awesome) and on the trip home pushed kinda hard up a pass. Since then the engine has a slight roughness, so maybe valves need re-adjusting.

Anyway, the car idles at 1146 RPM, and the numbers there are : HC 1156 PPM (limit 600) and CO % 3.73 (limit 3.50). Of course, like an idiot, I didn't get the car fully warmed up before (it takes like 15 minutes of serious driving).





Anyway, my main goal right now is to get the thing to pass, fast and cheap. Failing that, if I put $75 into diagnosing the problem (at a legit business) I can get a waiver.
I won't need to do this again, as my county is cancelling its emissions program in Dec. '06

My other goal is to know what's wrong. I just got the car, and I know its burning a little oil (rings and/or valve guides) so I'm deciding how to proceed : I'm toying w/ a mild Subaru swap if I can do it cheap enough...


Any hints appreciated....

[jsteele22]

For posterity, I just wanted to add a followup.

Since the original (failed) emmissions test, I made a few changes. One (huge) one was the timing. I think that the first time I set my timing, I actually set it at idle, rather than at 3500 RPM, which is where it is specified. Also, since I know the engine burns (and leaks) oil, I switched to a SAE 40 plus Lucas Oil Stabilizer (Bottle o' Snot). Engine's a little on the sluggish side when I start up cold, but runs fine when warm. I don't plan on driving on those -40 degree days... Also, following Cap'n's advice, I set the valves to .016". Afterwards the engine ran smoother (the valves were in need of adjusting) but I was suprised that there wasn't a horrible clatter from having the valves set so loose - sounded just like normal. I replaced the fuel filter, some old fuel line, nearly all of the FI hose in the engine bay (including the short stubs to the injectors, which were pinching a little) and the fuel injector seals. I don't have the tools for compression or leakdown, so I didn't know what these numbers were. And I did use 87 octane.

So I took the car in on Monday, and the HC problem was gone. The CO was somewhat above the limits ( I think it was 3%, and limit is 2.5%, but I don't have it here w/ me.) So I left it at the garage and let the guy do his thing. For $35 (including the $15 test fee) he tweaked the mixture, switched the retard line over to advance (which consensus here says is *not* the right place ...) and got the numbers low enough to pass. So I'm one step closer to being legal -- gonna go back to the DMV this afternoon (had to get a VIN verification).

A frosty virtual beer to all who helped...