V8 Conversion Completed, 1975 1.8L to Chevy 283 - Added Dyno Test Pg. 1 Options

[nick mironov]

My conversion took approximately 5 months of work to get the engine in and get the car on the road. Another 18 months for further work and improvements. Thanks very much to the 914 Club Forum and those who posted their conversion information and to those who responded to my questions, and special thanks to the club members who attended the V8 conversion meeting in Pleasanton in September 05 and shared their valuable knowledge with me.


If anyone is interested in seeing the car, I live in the Richmond District of San Francisco.

Project Specs:
1975 1.8L 914
Renegade conversion kit
Chevy 283
Vortec heads
Compcam 260H
New cam bearings
0.060 cylinder overbore
New rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression ratio)
New main and rod bearings
Replaced all gaskets and freeze plugs
New high volume oil pump
MSD Billet HEI distributor
Holley 4 barrel carburetor
Treated miscl rust with OSPHO and Por 15 paint
Herculiner truck bed liner in front and engine compartments
911 19mm master brake cylinder upgrade
BMW 320i front caliper upgrade to start with,
M-caliper upgrade using hubs by Mueller
Stainless steel flex brake hose upgrade
Replaced rear brake proportioning valve with TEE.
Rebuilt rear brake calipers
Pedal cluster bushings upgrade to brass (from existing plastic)
Replaced transmission shifter bushings
Replaced transmission seals
Weltmeister short-shifter
WEVO transmission mounts
9” Kevlar clutch
New Bilstein rear shocks and bellows/boots.
Electric fuel pump – Carter CRT-P4070 5 psi, 72 gph
New / custom throttle cable
HP mini-starter
2-gauge wire to starter
Ron Davis Radiator with two 13”diameter SPAL fans (Renegade set-up)
Renegade bypass thermostat system
VDO Water temperature gauge
VDO Oil pressure gauge
VDO Oil temperature gauge (original)
Tachometer upgrade by bigmarkdesign
Oil Cooler
Center console
Rear trunk strut conversion kit – Camp 914
Magnaflow dual-in dual-out muffler
Body work and re-paint
Power mirrors from Honda del Sol
Rear wing from Toyota MR-2
Interior seat and backpad kits by Autos International
Carpets by Morph
Towbar for flat towing with integral wiring harness
16" 4-lug Superlight wheels from Pack Racing Products
BF Goodrich G-Force Sport 205/55/16.

The dyno tests were done this 8/24/2008 at the Thunderhill dyno. At max rpm of about 6,250 the dynamometer showed a speed of 153 mph. On the track we got it up to about 125 mph. However, it threw a water pump belt a couple of times. I think that there is too much flex in the Renegade water pump mount, so I need to reinforce it.

At rear wheels: 263 ft-lb torque, 241 hp.
Engine: Assuming a 15% loss through the transmission, the engine would have about: 302 ft-lb torque, 277 hp.
Maybe more if the test was done on a motor dyno stand without water pump, alternator, and muffler.

Without air filter:


With and without air filter:

[dmenche914]

Might be worth a try taping some ribbons on the hood near vent, and see how much they move under your static test, then take it for a drive and see what they do, if they stay the same direction when you speed up, then you'r probably still flowing the right way. Frankly with your inner ducting, i don't see why the hood exhaust method wont work .

What do you have as the cover (screen?) on the outlet, can't tell form the computer. Like to see a closer up photo of how you did the hood outlet if you have one

On my car the wheel wells are cut, Last poster comment on square holes is right, rounded corners will really reduce the possibility of fatigue cracking. A square hole on the British Comet (first passenger jet, beat Boeing and the 707 into service) The squared off window on the fuselauge caused a crack too start there do to fatigue from the compression / decompression cycles. That killed a bunch of folks in several crashes until the Coments were grounded. By the time they figured it out, and rounded the windows, Boeing had taken lead with the 707, and the Comet dispite redesign, never regained the lead and sales were almost nill. A crack from a square window stopped British passenger jets form beating Boeing. Notice how all the windows on jets are rounded these days, no sharp corners.

you could round yours with a fat rattail (round) file in each corner, a 1/4 radius or so radius will help prevent cracking, it doesn't take much. and rounding is better than a sharp corner. larger radiuses are best, but would reuire the air intake hole to be made a bit wider and taller to add. (or leave size and have bulbus corners, nothing wrong with that.) I had to cut the corners round on my car, prior owner had made some square, and a crack about an inch long had started. Them again i think there is less stress int eh area you cut, the front panel is likely under a lot less stress than the wheel well section is.

Anyway neat to see someone experimenting with the hood. The cut outs in the wheel wells look like they would weaken the car. Mine are a bit big. Maybe a better idea for air exit than a big hole in the well is to drill lots of say 1/2 inch holes,a nd make a perferated panel? To late on my car, but something you could give a go if you decide to . Anyone done that?

Who did your exhaust pipes from the headers back? you or a local shop? (i got to get a quieter muffler!)


Anyway real nice conversion.