would a 74 911 front suspention bolt up to 73 914, this is a complete set up with rack Options

[orange914]

looking into possibility. from the looks of it (if the frame is the same dimentions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ) the frame bolts, steering coupler, upper struts and brake lines are the only consideration. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dead horse.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) what should i expect to pay for this set up?

[Eric_Shea]

Any suggestions Eric?

Me? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I'm generally not very opinionated... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I do recommend a few years for what I would consider an ideal 5-lug conversion for a 914-4 with narrow fenders (or any narrow bodied car for that matter). 1969 through 1973 T-suspensions.

I'll back my way into that, first let me answer some of your questions: Mounting arrangements have been both 3" and 3.5" since 1967 when the 911S with it's special S-Calipers were introduced.

It's true, the 3.5" mount does afford some of the later/larger calipers but, my viewpoint on these cars is to approach it with the entire system in mind. Now on to the shorter braking myth.

The first thing we ask is; Can you lock up your tires now? If yes, then you can't stop any faster even with Cayenne brakes... your tires have let go. If the answer is no, you need to have your stock brakes looked at. Any narrow body car with virtually any tire/wheel combo can lock up the wheels with stock brakes. So... stock brakes are more than adequate. Here's what you can do to help: New tires (larger contact patch preferably) and new pads. Make sure you have organic vs. metallic. An almost unanimous club recommend is the Porterfield P4S (s as in street). If you have a bad tailgating habit... knock it off or, change your pads and tires and your 914 will have a bad habit of throwing you through the windshield. Then take your mechanic for a ride and throw him through the windshield (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Now, if you want to go 5-lug let's look at the options you have there. Thankfully the folks at Porsche did this for us on about 3,318 (give or take a few GT's a handful of 916's and a couple 914-8's) examples known as the 914-6. Porsche used the 911T front suspension from that year. This had the 5-lug hub and 3" caliper mounting ear spacing. The T system used a M-Caliper up front (48mm piston) with the same size pad a stock caliper uses. Cars with this "system" used a 38mm piston in the back. 914-6 calipers have the 38mm rear piston and 911's use the rear M-Calipers that have the 38mm pistons as well. So... we know that's a pretty good system.

The only clear advantage I see with going to one of these systems is the vented rotors. 914-6's even had a special 17.8mm torsion bar made up with the 911 spline count. Why would a 911 t-bar on a 914 be an improvement? I think an overly sprung car can be a pain, especially on the street. The 911 setup is 18.8mm and it probably won't be a big issue... but, there's way too much "Bigger is Better" going on here and there's quite a few serious auto-x cars out there with stock t-bars. You want your suspension to work with you and your car. I would even go so far as to keep the 914 A-arms and make sure they have sway bar tabs on them.

Now, why do I like those years?

*This will guarantee you a set up with vented rotors (68 911's were solid other than the S model).
*This will also have the 3" spacing for the M-Caliper.
*The A-arms on these systems are set up for through body sway bars (read: more choice of aftermarket sizes and better geometry).
*These Boge based struts will hold virtually any aftermarket strut insert (Koni, Bilstein).
*Anything past 1971 will also have the updated/upgraded ball joints.

Now... you would have:

911 M-Calipers up front.
914 Calipers in the rear.

The 914 rear caliper has 33mm pistons. You could remove the proportioning valve and install a T or you could keep it an attempt to adjust it to your new system. You should also consider a 19mm master cylinder at this time as well. I would move to a 19mm and then work on adjusting the proportioning valve that's in the car. Once it's set, you forget it.

Finally... if the car has flares and 160+ hp, I would recommend an A or S-Caliper up front and probably a different brake/handbrake solution in the rear.

[heyeug]

I do recommend a few years...

Dang Eric, that was one freakin' awesome reply!!! Thanks and kudos to you!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I'm heading out the door now but I will respond more fully to your comments later.