How To: Swivel foot valve adjusters on a 74-76 2.0L? Options

[JeffBowlsby]

So those in the know...how is this conversion done? I don't now the specifics so please tell me. I understand that the stock 74-76 2.0L cars use a larger-diameter adjuster and cannot accept the swivel foot adjusters because they are smaller. The needed parts as I understand it are:

* Rocker arms/shaft assemblies from a 1.7L engine
* Swivel feet valve adjusters (10mm?)
* Shims

Is all the above correct?
What shims do I need and where are they installed?
Is there further machining to do to the rocker arms?

All details please...Thanks in advance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Aaron Cox]

i got mine off ebay and clearanced em to .004" side to side play

[914Mike]

i got mine off ebay and clearanced em to .004" side to side play

I just used the Hydro spacers and the shims and spring washers that came with them.

The shims go under the rocker stands to give the swivels enough room, I got mine from Bugformance on Capitol Ave, they're hanging on the carded wall on the right as you go in... (I'm sure Jeff knows where this place is.)

Either way you need to make custom length pushrods to get the geometry right once you put the 50-60 thou shims under the rocker stands. If you don't set it up so that the first half of the lift is pushing up on the valve stem, and the second half pushing it down, you will get premature wear on the valve guides. The stock length pushrods will be pushing mostly up on the valve stems...

[CHAFF]

Could you not just grind the face of the swivel foot down?

-L

[Dave_Darling]

Could you not just grind the face of the swivel foot down?

That would probably go through the hardening on the swivel foot, and get to a part that would wear quickly. It might also weaken the foot so that it breaks after a while...

Decking the rockers is a known quantity; they are more than beefy enough in that area to take it.

--DD

[CHAFF]

Man, there sure seems to be alot of misleading information regarding this upgrade. I think I will just stick to the good ol' 8mm stock adjusters.

-L

Could you not just grind the face of the swivel foot down?

That would probably go through the hardening on the swivel foot, and get to a part that would wear quickly. It might also weaken the foot so that it breaks after a while...

Decking the rockers is a known quantity; they are more than beefy enough in that area to take it.

--DD

[jd74914]

Man, there sure seems to be alot of misleading information regarding this upgrade. I think I will just stick to the good ol' 8mm stock adjusters.

-L

Could you not just grind the face of the swivel foot down?

That would probably go through the hardening on the swivel foot, and get to a part that would wear quickly. It might also weaken the foot so that it breaks after a while...

Decking the rockers is a known quantity; they are more than beefy enough in that area to take it.

--DD

Chaff,

What are you confused about? This is a known good upgrade. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[CHAFF]

Ok here is my deal.

I understand that this will require cutting back the rocker....

But here is the question no one wants to answer....you still need to shim up the mounting block? If so then doesn't the old push rod become too short hence you need a new set of longer pushrods?

-L


[/quote]

Chaff,

What are you confused about? This is a known good upgrade. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
[/quote]

[Dave_Darling]

But here is the question no one wants to answer....you still need to shim up the mounting block? If so then doesn't the old push rod become too short hence you need a new set of longer pushrods?

It will work if you don't put any shims between the rocker shaft and the head. However, the rocker arms will not line up very well with the valves, which will lead to accelerated wear. Since one of the main reasons to do this mod is to cut down on the wear on your valves and valve guides, having mis-aligned adjusters is rather counterproductive.

To get everything set up "perfectly" (or at least close!), you need to set up some measuring jigs and fiddle with at least two measurements that I can think of off the top of my head. One is how far away from the head the rocker shaft is, and that's where the shims come in. Another is the pushrod length--which is where an adjustable pushrod comes in handy. You also, at least sometimes, need to mess a little more with the part of the rocker closest to the valve.

Google "rocker arm geometry" and you can probably dig up a few articles about the subject. Or head over to Jake's to read about the application specifically to the Type IV engine with swivel-foot adjusting lugs.

--DD