More troubleshooting help needed..., this is getting not so much fun |
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More troubleshooting help needed..., this is getting not so much fun |
lotus_65 |
May 8 2007, 09:42 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,608 Joined: 21-March 05 From: minneapolis, mn Member No.: 3,795 Region Association: Northstar Region |
'74 2056 + dual 40's, mallory + blue coil internally ballasted.
So, because I just can't get the carbs right, I had a mechanic do it. The car ran great for about 300 miles and then started missing. I have gone through ignition, tested or swapped with known working replacements and the miss remains. I tested the mallory according to the instructions here: unilite module testing. It passed all those checks. I did a fuel flow test to the carbs. flow at under 1lb is a little shy to the 3&4 side, but at 2, where I run the regulator normally it's effectively even flow. I pressurized the system and got 3lb's max (my return line is calibrated for that). Both carbs seem to be feeding fuel appropriately. I can unplug wires 1&2, and the car still idles @<300rpm. Unplugging either 3 or 4 causes the engine to die. Here's the weird part: I can almost get the idle correct by holding the plug wires on 1 & 2 about a quarter inch from the tops of the plugs. That is to say that the idle comes up momentarily, and waivers depending on if ignition gets through the plug in time. I've replaced more plugs in the last year than I'd care to admit, and I broke my CSOB plug wrench or else I would have a report on those too. I can't see how they'd go bad though. Ignition or fuel? TIA for the help! Paul 952.451.5205 |
Carlitos Way |
May 8 2007, 04:51 PM
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#2
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I did it MY WAY Group: Members Posts: 1,337 Joined: 14-September 04 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 2,757 Region Association: Southern California |
I was once told (and I'm not sure if this is correct or not), that you should have equal length hoses into both carburetors. in other words, you should split your line to a T and feed both carbs from there with equal length hoses. MIght be a relatively simple and inexpensive solution to your trouble.
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Gint |
May 8 2007, 05:55 PM
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#3
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Mike Ginter Group: Admin Posts: 16,093 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I was once told (and I'm not sure if this is correct or not), that you should have equal length hoses into both carburetors. in other words, you should split your line to a T and feed both carbs from there with equal length hoses. MIght be a relatively simple and inexpensive solution to your trouble. I need to do that very thing. I just recently got rid of the single priogressive carb and replaced it with dual 40IDFs. My fuel hose tees at the right carb with a much longer hose going over to the left carb. The car stutters at steady throttle. When starting the car imediately after I rebuilt the carbs last week, it wanted to run but couldn't quite get it done. I checked the carbs for fuel squiting, first the right and then the left. The right carb float bowl had filled up and was squirting fuel, while the left carb was not. And this was after trying a good deal. I would have thought that the left carb float bowl was full. I primed the left carb and she fired right up. The moral? The car still sputters a bit at steady throttle. Not as bad, but it still needs something. One of my first thoughts was to replace all of the fuel line and make T in the middle of the two carbs with equal length lines to the individual carbs. It may be helpful, and it may not, but it's going to be done reagrdless. YMMV... |
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