Installing needle bearings on rear trailing (radius) control arms, step by step... |
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Installing needle bearings on rear trailing (radius) control arms, step by step... |
neo914-6 |
Jul 16 2007, 02:10 AM
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#1
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neo life Group: Members Posts: 5,086 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Willow Glen (San Jose) Member No.: 159 |
Introduction: Complete instructions to install the rear needle bearings (let me know if I've missed anything)
These bearings were designed and manufactured by Mike Mueller and sold direct or through Tarret Engineering. He ceased production so they are currently NLA. 736conver also made them in '05 but are NLA. SRS (Shine Racing) had the same design and sold their last bearing sets in '06 with no plans to reproduce. If you are interested in buying needle bearings, contact McMark to get on the pre-sale list. Below are some discussions or comparisons with other bushings to help you decide whether these bearings are right for you. They are a relatively expensive option and require more maintenance than bushings. They are used in most race cars. Which bushings: PolyGraph, Bronze, needle bearing,, or Delrin? Suspension Bushings, Needle vs. Bronze control arm bushings Roller bearing/poly rear bushing Suspension Rebuild, Elephant Racing Polybronze bearings? Suspension Bushings vs. Bearings, Opinions? Precision Needle Bearing Kits, who has Mueller's product installed... Suspension Bushings - Which ones? Best Bushings for my Application?, Oh noes! the choices! Are roller bearings really that great?, anyone out there with some experience? Whats the word on the self aligning control arm mounts, Do they help 914 Suspension Upgrade Spirited Street No Track?, What do you think?? Does anybody else besides me have trouble, getting keeping their NUTS tight!? trailing arm nuts Estimated time is 8 hours of removal, disassembly, bearing assembly, and installation for both sides given no problems with broken bolts or rust issues. Level of difficulty is 6 on a scale of 10. Tools and materials needed: -optional special tools -jack -good jack stands -17, 19, 22mm sockets -breaker bar -torque wrench rated up to 260 ft lbs -hammer -pickle fork or ball joint separator -Grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic, Swepco Wheel Bearing grease or Marine Grade Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease) -Grease gun and cartridges -Gloves -Loctite 60905 -spray lubricant -degreaser and cleanser -spray paint (optional) Nomenclature: trailing arm = control arm control arm bearing = pivot bracket = cup bearing Housing = cad plated tube = bearing race body ear = tab (inner pivot) I had both Shine Racing (from a group buy) and Mueller's Design Werks rear bearings but used Mikes because he already sold me his last set and was also fitting the PMB v-calipers to my trailing arms. I sold the SRS rear bearings to (iamchappy) for his turbo 914. Jim (roadster fan) disassembled, powdercoated, and rebuilt these arms with new hub bearings and initially rubber bushings last year as a contribution to my neo914 project. FYI, I'm removing arms with Rich Johnson 5 lug hubs and I'm replacing them with arms I originally bought for my V8 914 on eBay. They are equipped with what appears to be 944 hubs to accept larger 944/911 CV's. At this time you may also consider upgrading to 5 lug. |
neo914-6 |
Jul 16 2007, 02:35 AM
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#2
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neo life Group: Members Posts: 5,086 Joined: 16-January 03 From: Willow Glen (San Jose) Member No.: 159 |
Trailing arm removal:
1. Remove the axles, the nut at the stub axle may be difficult while off the car. Pelican tech article: Five-Lug Rear Conversion Procedure / Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement 2. Loosen the wheel nuts while the tires are on the ground 3. Jack up and secure the car so you can access all the hardware. Additional jacks or supports are recommended 4. Remove the wheel 5. Measure a common spot between the tranny and the back face of the arm so you will have the same Toe after the arm is replaced. 6. There are three bolts on the outer pivot mount used for toe and camber adjustment. There may be corrosion around the bolts. Lubricate the top body mount nuts the night before removal or for sufficient time (hours). You DO NOT want to snap the heads off the bolts as they are very difficult to drill and remove. If you do, here are options 7. Remove the 19mm bolts to the caliper, carefully lower and support it if you aren't going to disconnect the brake line 8. Remove the rotor 9. Disconnect the rear sway bar drop link if equipped. If you don't have a ball joint separator, an open end wrench can work 10. Remove the nut to the lower shock mount and slide out the long bolt 11. Use a 22mm socket or wrench to loosen the inner pivot nut 12. Use a 17mm socket to loosen the three pivot mount bolts VERY slowly. You may want to add more spray lubricant after a few turns. 13. Support the arm and remove. Remove the alignment shims. |
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