Installing needle bearings on rear trailing (radius) control arms, step by step... Options

[neo914-6]

Introduction: Complete instructions to install the rear needle bearings (let me know if I've missed anything)

These bearings were designed and manufactured by Mike Mueller and sold direct or through Tarret Engineering. He ceased production so they are currently NLA. 736conver also made them in '05 but are NLA. SRS (Shine Racing) had the same design and sold their last bearing sets in '06 with no plans to reproduce. If you are interested in buying needle bearings, contact McMark to get on the pre-sale list.

Below are some discussions or comparisons with other bushings to help you decide whether these bearings are right for you. They are a relatively expensive option and require more maintenance than bushings. They are used in most race cars.
Which bushings: PolyGraph, Bronze, needle bearing,, or Delrin?
Suspension Bushings, Needle vs. Bronze control arm bushings
Roller bearing/poly rear bushing
Suspension Rebuild, Elephant Racing Polybronze bearings?
Suspension Bushings vs. Bearings, Opinions?
Precision Needle Bearing Kits, who has Mueller's product installed...
Suspension Bushings - Which ones?
Best Bushings for my Application?, Oh noes! the choices!
Are roller bearings really that great?, anyone out there with some experience?
Whats the word on the self aligning control arm mounts, Do they help
914 Suspension Upgrade Spirited Street No Track?, What do you think??
Does anybody else besides me have trouble, getting keeping their NUTS tight!? trailing arm nuts

Estimated time is 8 hours of removal, disassembly, bearing assembly, and installation for both sides given no problems with broken bolts or rust issues. Level of difficulty is 6 on a scale of 10.

Tools and materials needed:
-optional special tools
-jack
-good jack stands
-17, 19, 22mm sockets
-breaker bar
-torque wrench rated up to 260 ft lbs
-hammer
-pickle fork or ball joint separator
-Grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic, Swepco Wheel Bearing grease or Marine Grade Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease)



-Grease gun and cartridges
-Gloves
-Loctite 60905



-spray lubricant
-degreaser and cleanser
-spray paint (optional)

Nomenclature:
trailing arm = control arm
control arm bearing = pivot bracket = cup
bearing Housing = cad plated tube = bearing race
body ear = tab (inner pivot)



I had both Shine Racing (from a group buy) and Mueller's Design Werks rear bearings but used Mikes because he already sold me his last set and was also fitting the PMB v-calipers to my trailing arms. I sold the SRS rear bearings to (iamchappy) for his turbo 914. Jim (roadster fan) disassembled, powdercoated, and rebuilt these arms with new hub bearings and initially rubber bushings last year as a contribution to my neo914 project. FYI, I'm removing arms with Rich Johnson 5 lug hubs and I'm replacing them with arms I originally bought for my V8 914 on eBay. They are equipped with what appears to be 944 hubs to accept larger 944/911 CV's.

At this time you may also consider upgrading to 5 lug.

[neo914-6]

Installing the bearings in the trailing arms

Here are a combination of Mueller's and Shine Racing instructions

1. The Bearing Housing is pressed into the trailing arm, start at this end:
2. It might be necessary to ream the trailing arm to get the Bearing Housing to slip into the trailing arm. One end of the shaft is machined down more
3. Once the Bearing Housing or tube can be slipped into the trailing arm, a press is recommended to fully insert into the arm.
Note: The Bearing Housing can be installed by tapping on the end as long EXTREME care is taken to ensure that the bore of the Bearing Housing is not damaged. The Needle Bearings assemblies must not be forced into the Bearing Housing, the Bearing Housing might have to be slightly filed or cleaned up to ensure the Needle Bearings fit without being forced into the Bearing Housings. Before fully pressing in the Bearing Housing, add a small amount of LOCTITE to the outside of the Bearing Housing on this end and a small amount on the inside of the trailing arm on the other end.
Note: Bearing Housings can also be secured to the trailing arms by drilling a small hole in the trailing arm out near the end and tack welding once fully pressed in. Be careful not to use too much heat as this can damage the bore that the Needle Bearings reside in.
4. Press the Bearing Housing (cad plated tubes) so that it is flush with both ends or in some cases if this does not happen due to variances in the trailing arm, make sure the Bearing Housing overhang or protrusion is equal on both sides.
5. Test fit the Needle Bearings into the Housing.
6. Add small amount of Loctite, press a bearing into ONE end of the tube
7. Add grease inside the tube, on the shaft, and squeezed through the bearings as you would with wheel bearings. It will need a volume of 3.8 fl. oz. of grease (calculated)
8. Slide the new axle shaft through the tube and bearing, so it comes out the other end.
9. Slide the second bearing over the axle shaft and into the tube, again using Loctite to secure the bearing. The shaft should now rotate freely in the bearings.
10. Add RTV Silicone between and within the O-ring if equipped and Thrust Washer.
11. Install them between the trailing arm bracket and ear where they will compress to create a dust seal.



Optional:
You may wish to install grease fittings in the trailing arms so the bearings can be regreased between maintenance without re-moving the arms from the car. I found 6mm x 1.0 at the local FLAPS



You can add one or two fittings, the grease will find the path of least resistance so one should suffice. DO NOT drill in the thick part of the trailing arm housing as there is an air gap between it and the Bearing Housing / tube. Make sure you pick an area accessible to a grease gun fitting and without interference. Drill the appropriate size hole in the arm and inner tube, TAKING CARE TO DRILL AT LEAST 3/4" FROM THE END, to avoid the bearing flange. Tap the hole and clean any shavings. Thread in the grease fitting.



It takes a very large quantity of grease (3.8 fl. oz.) to fill up the tube the first time, so be patient and keep pumping until the grease comes out of the bearing. My calculations may have been incorrect as I used more than two 3 oz cartridges on one arm.