Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Installing needle bearings on rear trailing (radius) control arms, step by step...
neo914-6
post Jul 16 2007, 02:10 AM
Post #1


neo life
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,086
Joined: 16-January 03
From: Willow Glen (San Jose)
Member No.: 159



Introduction: Complete instructions to install the rear needle bearings (let me know if I've missed anything)

These bearings were designed and manufactured by Mike Mueller and sold direct or through Tarret Engineering. He ceased production so they are currently NLA. 736conver also made them in '05 but are NLA. SRS (Shine Racing) had the same design and sold their last bearing sets in '06 with no plans to reproduce. If you are interested in buying needle bearings, contact McMark to get on the pre-sale list.

Below are some discussions or comparisons with other bushings to help you decide whether these bearings are right for you. They are a relatively expensive option and require more maintenance than bushings. They are used in most race cars.
Which bushings: PolyGraph, Bronze, needle bearing,, or Delrin?
Suspension Bushings, Needle vs. Bronze control arm bushings
Roller bearing/poly rear bushing
Suspension Rebuild, Elephant Racing Polybronze bearings?
Suspension Bushings vs. Bearings, Opinions?
Precision Needle Bearing Kits, who has Mueller's product installed...
Suspension Bushings - Which ones?
Best Bushings for my Application?, Oh noes! the choices!
Are roller bearings really that great?, anyone out there with some experience?
Whats the word on the self aligning control arm mounts, Do they help
914 Suspension Upgrade Spirited Street No Track?, What do you think??
Does anybody else besides me have trouble, getting keeping their NUTS tight!? trailing arm nuts

Estimated time is 8 hours of removal, disassembly, bearing assembly, and installation for both sides given no problems with broken bolts or rust issues. Level of difficulty is 6 on a scale of 10.

Tools and materials needed:
-optional special tools
-jack
-good jack stands
-17, 19, 22mm sockets
-breaker bar
-torque wrench rated up to 260 ft lbs
-hammer
-pickle fork or ball joint separator
-Grease (Mobil 1 Synthetic, Swepco Wheel Bearing grease or Marine Grade Boat Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease)

Attached Image

-Grease gun and cartridges
-Gloves
-Loctite 60905

Attached Image

-spray lubricant
-degreaser and cleanser
-spray paint (optional)

Nomenclature:
trailing arm = control arm
control arm bearing = pivot bracket = cup
bearing Housing = cad plated tube = bearing race
body ear = tab (inner pivot)

Attached Image

I had both Shine Racing (from a group buy) and Mueller's Design Werks rear bearings but used Mikes because he already sold me his last set and was also fitting the PMB v-calipers to my trailing arms. I sold the SRS rear bearings to (iamchappy) for his turbo 914. Jim (roadster fan) disassembled, powdercoated, and rebuilt these arms with new hub bearings and initially rubber bushings last year as a contribution to my neo914 project. FYI, I'm removing arms with Rich Johnson 5 lug hubs and I'm replacing them with arms I originally bought for my V8 914 on eBay. They are equipped with what appears to be 944 hubs to accept larger 944/911 CV's.

At this time you may also consider upgrading to 5 lug.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies
neo914-6
post Sep 7 2007, 03:13 PM
Post #2


neo life
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,086
Joined: 16-January 03
From: Willow Glen (San Jose)
Member No.: 159



1. Once the arms and bearings are assembled, use the supplied hardened washers as a race for the thrust portion of the bearing. The number of washers will vary from car to car, try to minimize the side to side play as much as possible.

2. Install and tighten the outside nut to the outer pivot bracket that bolts to the chassis keeping the bolt plate level with the length of the arm, pictured.

3. Install one side of the assembled arm into the tab or ear on the body and install one of the 3 bolts on the pivot bracket. One them is for the hole in the shim. Install one of the other two on open slots in case you need to add more shims for camber adjustment. This holds the arm until you can get the nut installed on the ear side. Make sure to use the factory supplied washer on the outside of the inner tab.

4. Swing the control arm up in the rear and slide the shock mount bolt through the trailing arm hole and begin to tighten the nuts and bolts.

5. Use the measurements you recorded earlier to establish the same toe setting.

6. Torque:
-Two Control arm bearing/control arm nuts to the stock settings @ 108 ft/lbs:
-Three Control arm bearing/body 10 x 55 mm bolts @ 50 ft/lbs.
-Tighten the shock bolt/nut (no specs?)

16. Recheck the bolt torque, and side to side play after run in.

6. Reinstall calipers, torque to 50 ft/lbs, bleed if hose was disconnected

7. Reinstall axles, torque bolts (see install threads) Remember to install new schnorr washers or Dr Evil's wire tie bolts

8. Reinstall rear swaybar joint if equipped

9. Install wheels, and torque wheel nuts to 94 ft/lbs or bolts to 108.5 ft/lbs. Tighten crosswise, and with ball surface lubricated with molybendum disulphide based grease.

10. Remove from jack stands, check alignment per methods below.

Maintenance:
1. Remove, inspect, and regrease the needle bearings each year or two (YMMV) to protect your expensive precision upgrade. They were not fully designed to protect against dirt like the original vulcanize rubber joints. There are preventative measures like o-rings and RTV, large heat shrink tubing, a cut bicycle tube, or a planned rubber cap that is not available yet.

When you remove the bearings feel for grit of sand and dirt. Clean with a good cleaner, air blast all the sand out, refresh with new grease. If you don't maintain these bearings, expect a two to three year life span from needle bearings in an exposed condition.

2. Check your rear alignment regularly. The force of wider than stock tires or sticky autocross tires can cause the rear end to get out of alignment more often. The three bolt friction joint was not designed for this excessive force. Some racers check and need to correct alignment after every autocross race.

You can get it professionally aligned, purchase Smart Products "smart string" product for DIY, or make your own version. This will insure even tire wear.

Here are some helpful links:

Easy way to check for toe-in?
Alignments done at home., Yes it is possible!
DIY Alignment
Rear Alignment, ... anybody have a tech article?
Wheel Alignment, Procedures
teener alginment, would you trust a porsche dealer ?
Question about Toe Alignment Equipment., What do you use and how accurate?
Alignment, where would you take your car?
Low ri-der rides a little lower
Rear alignment adjustments?
DIY Alignment, what need?
wheel alignment tricks?
Pissed off: Alignment got screwed i believe, nned to talk to someone knowledgeable.
Alignment, done !

next, installing front needle bearings. Here's Leo's install thread
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
5 User(s) are reading this topic (5 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th November 2024 - 08:55 PM