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VaccaRabite |
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,475 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
So, at the Sterling meet I did a leakdown test on my motor, and found a problem with Cylinder 1. 45% leakdown, but 120 lbs of compression. Was tempted just to let sleeping dogs lie, but pulled the head off.
What was going on was clear as soon as we did that, the head was not totaly sealed to the cylinder, off by a very small amount. Instead of having the head recut, I decided to try and lap the two of them together. So, last night I hand lapped them, using ground graphite to check for even contact. I got good contact after the third round of hand lapping (lap, clean, check). Now I need to get the jug back on the block. I have a ring compressor on the piston, but I can't ficgure out how to get the head back on. Do I have to take the piston head off the rod? If so, how do I get it off. It looks like that tis a spring keeper that needs to be removed. Is there anyhting on the rod the needs to be loosened before I can pull the pin out to remove the piston head? Obviously, if there is a trick to getting the jug back on without pulling off the piston head, I'd like to do that. Zach |
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geniusanthony |
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Its a brand new "Chrome-sicle" ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Alexandria,VA Member No.: 5,266 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
Lemme try and work this out in my head. Cylinder 1 p/c, If you remove the circlip from between the cylinders with a pair of 90 degree cirlip pliers
Note on pliers: get a pair in which the jaws close all the way not just almost, I got a pair from home depot with interchangable pins I think Vise grip brand perhaps, point is they had enough slop in the end that in trying to remove the circlip, they would not fully compress the clip to remove it from the groove in the piston. Moving on, pull the inside circlip, drive the wristpin from the oil cooler side with a drift that fits inside of the circlip on the driven side...a deep 10mm socket sounds about right for diameter. once that wristpin is out, pull the piston off. Mark which way is up on the piston with a marker or paint pen. Remove the remaining circlip, put it back in the other side (the inside of the cylinders side) and you are ready to compress the rings (offset the gaps 120 degrees first) and noting that the upmarking on the piston is pointing the same way as when remove. Drive the piston into the cylinder slowly, if you meet stiff resistance STOP and make sure that a ring hasn't come unseated. Any spacers that were under the cylinder should be back in place now, and with rod 1 at TDC or close, and the piston in the bore at the bottom so that the wristpin hole is fully exposed. Put the pin into the piston a bit then slide the rod in place and finish inserting the pin and reinstalling the circlip. Seat the jug and you are done. Experts feel free to chime in as its been awhile. |
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