 Rear rotor hold-down screws, ....are they necessary? (five lug conversion question) |
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| jaybird840 |
 Dec 12 2007, 02:45 PM
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 163 Joined: 27-September 06 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 6,927 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
I just bolted up my new Eric Shea control arms with the Elephant poly bronze bushings for my five lug rear conversion and I'm really psyched. They installed almost effortlessly, and I'm completing the install. However, when I went to install the new 914/6 rear rotors (thanks Mark H!) the holes for the two little screws that hold the rotor to the hub no longer line up. What are my options? 1) drill and tap for the new location 2) can you let the rotor "float" and just keep it held down with the torque of the lug nutz? Thanks guys!!!
--Jaybird |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 12 2007, 05:24 PM
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
QUOTE Funny you posted this because I'm in the same situation. If we decide to redrill/retap do we have to do both holes or just one? If you decide to tap, tap both. It's best to have the rotor uniformly tight on the hub surface. That's why I suggested 2 nuts above. You don't want an unusual runout while adjusting the e-brake. QUOTE Let me know if you have trouble spreading the pads far enough for the six rotors. One pad went far enough... the other hasn't (yet=bfh). Haven't tried the other caliper yet..... LMK That's a caliper issue that is probably unique to you not necessarily Rich. I would not take a BFH to your caliper. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Which piston is not retracting all the way? I guess, regardless, you should/could apply pressure to the piston top while turning the adjuster in the proper direction (which is clockwise for the outer and counter clockwise for the inner) QUOTE Also make sure your hub is pressed all of the way into the bearing. It is... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) |
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Posts in this topic
jaybird840 Rear rotor hold-down screws Dec 12 2007, 02:45 PM
Spoke I don't believe you need the little screws. Th... Dec 12 2007, 03:01 PM SLITS On a /4 the screws keep the rotor from falling off... Dec 12 2007, 03:02 PM Jeffs9146 I drilled mine but I was told I didn't need to... Dec 12 2007, 03:41 PM Eric_Shea 914 and 911 (hence 914-6) hold down screws are in ... Dec 12 2007, 04:13 PM rfuerst911sc Funny you posted this because I'm in the same ... Dec 12 2007, 04:33 PM
jaybird840
Funny you posted this because I'm in the same... Dec 12 2007, 04:40 PM rfuerst911sc
Funny you posted this because I'm in the sam... Dec 13 2007, 04:59 AM Jeffs9146
You need to loosen the pad adjuster on the outsi... Dec 12 2007, 05:23 PM Eric_Shea
Agreed, it would be fairly easy at machining tim... Dec 12 2007, 06:19 PM Jeffs9146 Was the hub powder coated on the face between the ... Dec 12 2007, 06:30 PM Eric_Shea No. Why would that matter though...? :confused: Dec 12 2007, 06:31 PM Jeffs9146 It would move the rotor outward by .006 - .008 whi... Dec 12 2007, 06:44 PM Cap'n Krusty To emphasize what was mentioned earlier, ALWAYS ap... Dec 12 2007, 07:15 PM jaybird840
To emphasize what was mentioned earlier, ALWAYS a... Dec 12 2007, 08:31 PM Jeffs9146
A C-clamp with an old brake pad will work, just ... Dec 12 2007, 08:55 PM Eric_Shea
Nada. The width of a business card isn't go... Dec 12 2007, 09:01 PM Eric_Shea Here's one that was on the bench. The assembl... Dec 12 2007, 09:10 PM Jeffs9146
Thats what the old brake pad is for! :idea: ... Dec 12 2007, 09:28 PM Eric_Shea
Other side... difficult to keep the c-clamp on t... Dec 12 2007, 09:59 PM Jeffs9146
I agree! The alternative is to rebuild! ... Dec 12 2007, 10:35 PM |
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