Can't get my car to run correctly, Need some help |
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Can't get my car to run correctly, Need some help |
dlee6204 |
Oct 23 2010, 11:48 AM
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#1
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
Okay, I'm needing some outside opinions. As some of you may know, I had to replace the engine in my car due several issues.
I got the backup engine together and installed (2.0L FI) and I cannot get it to run correctly. When I start it up (if I can get it started) the first thing you notice is the sound. It is loud and it is an air-like sound that seems to be more distinct on the driver's side of the car. It sounds like more air is being pushed/sucked through the engine than there should be. Kind of sounds like a Harley. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) When driving, the car feels like it has no power either. When accelerating, the car shutters and struggles to increase speeds and the engine itself does not want to rev. I did some tests and verified that all four injector were working properly and that all four cylinders were firing. About a week ago I took it for a test drive (approx. 10 minutes) and after experiencing the problem, I pulled over, shut the car off and made sure everything will still hooked up and all connections were tight. I tried to restart the car and it would not start. I had to tow the car home. That was the last time I had the car running. My first thought was that I messed up the valves or timing. After adjusting the valves several times and set the timing to spec, there is virtually no change. (I used the "rocking" method the last time to ensure the valves were correct regardless of where TDC was) I have heard that having the distributor 180 degrees off, the car will run but not very well. So I tried to flip it around and I got nothing. The car didn't even try to run. I did a compression test when the motor was COLD and I got 120 on three cylinders and 70 on the fourth(cylinder # 3). I would like to repeat this test with the engine warm however I can't get it to start. I believe it might be flooded from all the cranking. So assuming I can get it running after it dries out, what should be my next step? What could be causing this issue? The low compression on cylinder 3 would cause a decrease in power and needs to be addressed however I don't want to take the engine back out to the remove the head until I can verify the compression results with the engine warm. Would half-pressure on one cylinder cause excessive 'air noise' from the opposite side of the engine or 'shuttering' when accelerating? Obviously the 70 psi is not good but it doesn't seem to be the only thing wrong. Maybe I'm wrapping my head around this too much, what do you guys think? |
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