Rear Brake Job... what a PIA!, Any tips or tricks out there. |
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Rear Brake Job... what a PIA!, Any tips or tricks out there. |
steuspeed |
May 3 2012, 02:30 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,008 Joined: 12-July 11 From: Portland, Oregon Member No.: 13,308 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
So I attempted a rear brake job today with not much luck. First off the metal cover on the inside adjuster was freaking stuck on. After cooking the caliper on my stove with liquid wrench, freezing it in my freezer over night, cooking it again in the morning the thing would not budge with a 4mm hex wrench on a huge crescent wrench. My hex key was twisting under the force. Finally the hex hole stripped. I cut the edges off the round cover with my dremel cut off tool and made a 13mm hex nut out of it. After hitting the thing with my propane torch it came loose only with a long 13mm craftsman pro wrench. The piston was so far out I had to use a C clamp to get it going back in with the adjuster. Next, one of the rotor screws was stuck. I never got it off despite liquid wrench and rust remover gel. I hit my screwdriver with a hammer while trying to turn it. Used my torch too. No luck. Next, I'm looking at my new Porterfield RS4 pads and notice that the holes are the same size unlike the ones on the car that have one big and one small. These won't work unless I hog out one hole. Any comments on this? Since I can't get this ground up rotor off, I decide to grab an old ATE Alfa Romeo pad I had and hog out one hole just to get by for now. After I get the caliper mounted I notice that setting the pad clearance on the inside pad is going to be next to impossible. How do you get a feeler gauge in there with the dust shield in the way? I bought a long T handle 4mm wrench and it's too long to get through the trailing arm hole to adjust. Looks like you need just the right hex wrench and turning it is not going to be real easy regardless. Any tips or tricks on this job would be appreciated.
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