AAR Picture needed Options

[442nd914s]

Can someone post a picture of a stock 2.0 Lt Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR). No aftermarket. Installed in the engine prefered, but not necessary.

Greatly apprecitate. Thanks

[JawjaPorsche]

Can someone post a picture of a stock 2.0 Lt Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR). No aftermarket. Installed in the engine prefered, but not necessary.

Greatly apprecitate. Thanks

Picture not in car, sorry


http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Aux-Air...4460610300.html

[Dave_Darling]

That's the 1.8 version, not the 1.7 or 2.0 version.

Here's a cutaway drawing of the 2.0 one, courtesy of Brad Anders:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/members.rennlist.com-121-1359583855.1.jpg)


Some pics of one opened up, courtesy of "sean_v8_914" on the Pelican board:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-121-1359583856.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-121-1359583856.3.jpg)

Nothing handy of it in place at the moment, sorry. User "bleyseng" has a pic of a 2.0 engine with the hoses labeled, you can see where 2 of them come together at the AAR but the regulator itself is not that obvious. See the label and arrow in the left-center of this pic:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-121-1359583857.4.jpg)

--DD

[jsayre914]

Can someone post a picture of a stock 2.0 Lt Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR). No aftermarket. Installed in the engine prefered, but not necessary.

Greatly apprecitate. Thanks

Any chance I can get to repost these, no problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[442nd914s]

Thanks for the pictures!!! That's exactly what I needed.
On more thing.

If someone can educate me on how this AAR ties in/works. The way I understand it is:
This is an air bypass till it warms up.
Upon start up the valve is open allowing air to flow thru normally. Power (12vdc) is applied to the built in heating element to slowly close up the valve. At which then it air flow thru this AAR is cut off and throttle body controls the air flow and idle. Is this right?
I'm just trying to trouble shoot my high idle. I've timed it to 27 degrees and completely adjusted my tb idle valve. I'm still getting my high idle. I've removed and sprayed the AAR, ohmed out to 13 ohms, applied 12vdc to check it out and it works. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[dlee6204]

You are correct on how it works. How high is it idling? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

[JawjaPorsche]

You are correct on how it works. How high is it idling? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Vacuum leak could be anywhere. Start by replacing your vacuum hoses and don't forget those rubber elbows. I had one that looked okay until I squeezed it and it had a big split. They dry up and crack because of the heat in engine bay.

Auto Atlanta sells vacuum hose kit and elbows:

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Vacuum-...BAAVACKIT3.html

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Vacuum-...R022129637.html

[luskesq]

I recently had the same problem with high idle. Confirmed basics (dwell, timing, valves, etc.) and have recently replaced all vacuum lines, injector seals, intake spacers and the like. Discovered that in the process of removing/replacing the throttle body and after adjusting the TPS that the throttle body gasket (new), had dislodged and ended up on the tin. I hadn't noticed that. Replaced and idle was good.

The Anders site has a good checklist for looking for vacuum leaks. Can be frustrating for sure.

Have fun,

Keith

[442nd914s]

All new hoses from AA already installed. New injector seals, new intake manifold gaskets & 4 coupler hoses.
It idles at 2-2.5k with the idle valve fully cw in the closed position. I tought about the TPS being bad, but I cleaned it with Radio Shack electronic cleaner-no difference. However, I did notice 1 thing with the TPS. I get an open (0 ohms) when messuring between pins 17 & 12 before & after cleaning & attempting to callibrate. Other than this high idle problem, the car purrs like a kitten. Maybe the sub 32 degree weather is having an effect on the idle? I am running the engine for 20-30 mins stationary.

Just for my info: does the 12vdc power to the AAR ever shut off after reaching its tempature? If it doesnt, just imagine the extended life spand the element could have.

[Dave_Darling]

Power to the AAR is tied directly to fuel pump power. So it get heated the whole time the pump is running.

2500 RPM is a lot of vacuum leaking. Check for mis-routed hoses: Any hose that goes directly from the manifold to the air cleaner is wrong, they should all have some "component" in between. Also check for hoses that have been knocked off.

--DD

[toadman]

Is it possible that your cold start injector is leaking or stuck open? I'd remove the electrical leads from this injector and see if it makes a difference. It is easy to do.

[second wind]

OK....so you learn something everyday....what is the name of the part that they did not install on European models that has something to do with the gas/smog? I thought it was the AAR mine had been removed but the AAR is right where it is supposed to be ('73 2.0). I didn't check but where does the AAR wire plug in? Thank you very much.
gg

[rjames]

Other things to check:
Decel valve: If it's not closing all the way it can kick the idle up quite a bit. If you don't have a vacuum gauge an easy test is to just pull off and plug the smaller hose that goes to it. If the idle drops, you've found at least one of the leaks.
Make sure the butterfly in the TB is closing all of the way. If the bore is worn you may have air getting by it.
If you're using the stock distributor with vacuum retard, make the sure the vacuum canister isn't leaking.

[second wind]

I think it was the decel valve that we took off. Was that for US cars only? Thank you.
gg