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> Rebuiding Inside-out
bkrantz
post Oct 16 2019, 08:47 PM
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I realize most rebuilds go from the inside to the outside, but I am struck by how straight and clean the outer panels, including paint, look on my 73 2.0. And all the nasty stuff is hidden underneath--which I know is also not unusual.

Any way, I bought the car knowing most of what it was: a 2.0 with all the sport and appearance group equipment, including 5 good Fuchs, and the original fuel injection. The original engine is confirmed by a COA. In contrast to the exterior the interior was mixed at best, with some funky carpet. And the front and rear trunks (and engine compartment, and interior) had been sprayed with black undercoating.

So after a month, I have the car stripped to a bare shell, except for suspension and steering. I measured everything I could, and the body is very square and on spec. I need to patch some local rust spots, and replace the rear floor. And then do some minor straightening: right headlight bucket, front edge of right front fender, rear panel, etc.


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DdHavtech
post Mar 14 2021, 07:19 PM
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On the sail panel vinyl - what is the correct way to trim it and not scratch into the nice new paint?

Very nice.
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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(DdHavtech @ Mar 14 2021, 06:19 PM) *

On the sail panel vinyl - what is the correct way to trim it and not scratch into the nice new paint?

Very nice.


I used several new single-edge razor blades, and cut width moderate pressure--trying to cut the vinyl and only score the paint. I thought about pre-cutting the lower edge, but could not figure out how to make sure I glued it on exactly right.
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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:35 PM
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A productive couple of hours today. I started with the fresh air control panel. It looks a little shabby but I cleaned and tested all the contacts.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:36 PM
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Control panel in place, but at first I could not recall how to keep it in place.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:37 PM
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Then I found (and remembered) the single bolt that goes through a bracket on the back side of the control panel and into the bulkhead. Also note the wires connected.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:39 PM
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And the 3 cables fed through the 3-hole rubber grommet.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:41 PM
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Now its time for the dreaded fresh air box. I rebuilt this with the 914 Rubber kit, tested all the circuits, and have the new upper rubber gasket and plastic grill.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:43 PM
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Now I know I am getting old. I got tired of climbing into the frunk for better access, so I got out my ladder.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:44 PM
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OK, step one was attaching the control cable (from upper lever) to the box, and adjusting the position to match the lever throw.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:46 PM
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Then the cable connector. I replaced the broken one that the PO had duct-taped in place.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:48 PM
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Ready for my first attempt, with the rubber gasket and grill in place.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:50 PM
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1st attempt: I muscled the box into place but the gasket and grill were no longer in position, and no chance of getting my fingers in close to fix that. Notice the dirty foot print on the right.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:52 PM
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2nd (or maybe 3rd) attempt: I used some long zip ties to hold the gasket and grill in place.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:54 PM
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I had enough muscle left to pull up on the cowl panel while pushing the box into place. So old, but not too old. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:58 PM
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Now for the last part: lifting the box against the new rubber gasket to align the side holes with the mounting brackets and get the bolts in place. I got the right side in with more muscle power, but could not get the left side without assist. For that, I used a 2x4 lever and my wonderful wife. I pulled on the lever while pushing the box to the rear, and she got the bolt started. Note that I pried against the lower corner of box, and not against the drain outlet.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 07:59 PM
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All I had to do was snip the zip ties and pull them free, with some soapy water to help.


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bkrantz
post Mar 15 2021, 08:00 PM
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Success! At least until I test it all later on.


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euro911
post Mar 15 2021, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(ElCee @ Mar 12 2021, 01:20 AM) *
You better paint these two spots black.


Aren't there a couple of plastic vent outlets that fit in there? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 12 2021, 07:29 PM) *
After I mounted the front plate to the dash frame, I cut out all the holes in the dash face, without thinking. On my car, switches fill the 3 holes left of the steering wheel, and the cigarette lighter goes in the big hole on the right. But now I have 2 extra holes!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-23343-1615602562_thumb.jpg)


Maybe you could install a couple of auxiliary electrical toggle switches with the bomber type safety covers to fill the extra holes... ? (They look cool) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

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raynekat
post Mar 15 2021, 10:33 PM
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Had to chuckle a bit when I saw the step ladder.
Thank goodness I've got long arms and did this all while leaning over the fenders. Ha
Yeah, that 2 by 4 brought back some memories.
And the dreaded screen on the top of the airbox.

Now if you just don't have to remove the airbox 2 more times like I did for various stupid reasons.
Looking good there Bob.

And for one of the extra holes in the dash....might I suggest a rear fog light. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

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For the other, you could add one of those slick dual USB charging ports.

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CptTripps
post Mar 16 2021, 07:20 AM
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QUOTE(raynekat @ Mar 16 2021, 12:33 AM) *

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Do you have a link for where to buy one of these? That looks ideal to fix 2 issues I'm having. Voltage display and USB charging.
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