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> Trouble shooting the Fuel Injection, Checking the volts and resistance on a D-Jet 1.7 '70
BMXerror
post Oct 17 2009, 02:22 PM
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When you checked for injector pulse, did you actually pull the injectors and check for fuel coming out? If so, then you can eliminate any 'no fuel pressure' theories. Go back to basics. Air, fuel, spark, timing. Try to steer clear of wild, convoluted theories. They're usually bunk.
So has the engine not run in 20 years, or was it running before you messed with the CHT sensor?
Mark D.
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BMXerror
post Oct 17 2009, 02:37 PM
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Sorry. Didn't see your post about not being able to register any fuel pressure on the gauge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) The 'keep it simple' advice still applies. How did you check the injector pulse before?
Mark D.
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 04:41 PM
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QUOTE(BMXerror @ Oct 17 2009, 01:37 PM) *

Sorry. Didn't see your post about not being able to register any fuel pressure on the gauge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) The 'keep it simple' advice still applies. How did you check the injector pulse before?
Mark D.


Mark... I checked the pulse with a LED light. But I did find a kink in the line under the car. I went to the store and purchased a coupler and added some more line. I do have pressure now, but it will still not start. Should the fuel system maintain pressure when turned off? The gauge went to 55psi or so and then dropped to zero in about 5-8 seconds.

Thanks...
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 04:43 PM
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QUOTE(tod914 @ Oct 17 2009, 01:07 PM) *

You should be able to peek in the tank with a light and see if the filter sock is clogged. The AAR works off of the same fuse as the pump. But, it would more than likely blow the fuse if it was shorting out. Couldn't hurt to unplug the AAR to test. Sound like a clog or misrouteing. You mentioned in the other thread the fuel system was removed. You can try swapping the lines inside the engine bay by the battery tray where they attach to the plastic lines (feed and return). If they are swapped, you will not get pressure. Pelican has a fuel routing diagram too if you need it.


The AAR warms-up when connected to battery... warm closes and opens when cooled down. Should it warm-up just with the ignition turned on?
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swl
post Oct 17 2009, 05:04 PM
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QUOTE(tabs914 @ Oct 17 2009, 02:41 PM) *

QUOTE(BMXerror @ Oct 17 2009, 01:37 PM) *

Sorry. Didn't see your post about not being able to register any fuel pressure on the gauge. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) The 'keep it simple' advice still applies. How did you check the injector pulse before?
Mark D.


Mark... I checked the pulse with a LED light. But I did find a kink in the line under the car. I went to the store and purchased a coupler and added some more line. I do have pressure now, but it will still not start. Should the fuel system maintain pressure when turned off? The gauge went to 55psi or so and then dropped to zero in about 5-8 seconds.

Thanks...

28psi is what you are looking for. sounds like the return is kinked too.
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 05:14 PM
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I'll go check again... should the pressure drop suddenly like it is?
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swl
post Oct 17 2009, 05:34 PM
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yep - nothing to hold it up.
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 05:42 PM
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Sorry miss read...28-29 and the gauge has a small leak...
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 06:24 PM
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GOOD NEWS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) The spark looked a little weak, so I replaced the coil and she started right up. Seems to be running a bit rich though. I checked the plugs and they are covered with carbon powder. I have only checked one of them so far...

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BMXerror
post Oct 17 2009, 06:36 PM
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QUOTE(tabs914 @ Oct 17 2009, 05:24 PM) *

GOOD NEWS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) The spark looked a little weak, so I replaced the coil and she started right up. Seems to be running a bit rich though. I checked the plugs and they are covered with carbon powder. I have only checked one of them so far...

That's awesome news! If spark was your problem, she may just need to blow some excess crap out of the engine. Take her out and run her a bit and the exhaust may clean up some. And enjoy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Mark D.
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tabs914
post Oct 17 2009, 07:11 PM
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QUOTE(BMXerror @ Oct 17 2009, 05:36 PM) *

QUOTE(tabs914 @ Oct 17 2009, 05:24 PM) *

GOOD NEWS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) The spark looked a little weak, so I replaced the coil and she started right up. Seems to be running a bit rich though. I checked the plugs and they are covered with carbon powder. I have only checked one of them so far...

That's awesome news! If spark was your problem, she may just need to blow some excess crap out of the engine. Take her out and run her a bit and the exhaust may clean up some. And enjoy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Mark D.


I just need to free the rear brakes. problem is there are wheel locks on the car and I can't get the rear wheels off. The key I have isn't the right pattern ...arg!
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swl
post Oct 18 2009, 06:39 AM
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If the cht was failing that might account for the richness. You may have already fixed that with the new one.

You might find 'Just free the rear brakes' more than a quick fix. If they are the brakes that have been sitting for 20 years you really need to rebuild them.
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