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> Buick/Rover aluminum v8 to 914 conversion
GS Guy
post Dec 24 2009, 01:11 PM
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Here are some ideas on keeping the engine short and not cutting the firewall!

(IMG:http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r36/jg_pics/V8%20Engine%20Ideas/Allclosedin002.jpg)

(IMG:http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r36/jg_pics/V8%20Engine%20Ideas/Itsinatlast007.jpg)

Appears to be a fairly simple close-off plate over the original pump location - with single inlet. Original pump relocated along side engine with custom brackets and new custom pump "rear" section. About as compact as this arrangement can get!

I'm wondering if one of these can be tuned to about 300hp and 260ft/lbs of 901 lov'n torque! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Jeff
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streetrover
post Dec 24 2009, 01:11 PM
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I looked at the reddawg site and didn't see much for Buick motor. Since I'm still unsure about the forward/backward positioning of the motor I'm going to avoid pre-manufactured mounts for now. I am, however, strongly considering a "cradle" of some sort to actually run/tune motor out of car. With such limited clearances I'm feeling it might be easier to drop the motor into some kind of jig with fuel/water/battery to do any future repairs.
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streetrover
post Dec 24 2009, 01:22 PM
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YES! YES! Perfect! This is EXACTLY what I've been thinking! Is this beauty yours? I've spent a little time on the britishv8.com site and I've seen a SUPERCHARGED motor putting out a reputed 400hp. No way it'll fit though. The Australians have done miraculous things too. I've seen heads with 4 valves per cylinder - and can only imagine the horsepower. Not my thing though. Want a daily-driving freeway flyer. 200hp should be enough.
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streetrover
post Dec 24 2009, 02:24 PM
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I think I found that UK site you were speaking of. They've got all sorts of computer-controlled ignition systems. triggerwheels.com
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J P Stein
post Dec 24 2009, 02:35 PM
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OK, Iff'n I was to do a different conversion, here be the motor, not cheep & who needs turbos, but here ya go.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/...g_assembly.html
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codices
post Dec 24 2009, 03:53 PM
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I will attempt to post a picture of the cradle. It is against the wall behind the engine.
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 24 2009, 04:55 PM
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Here's my version, alternator relocated down low. Now it clears the firewall but runs into the brake proportioning valve. Always something.
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Exhausts fabbed out of 4"x18" garden variety mufflers off ebay.
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ran out of space. See next post
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 24 2009, 05:17 PM
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continued...

Water pump is just an empty shell. Without the wp pulley, now it's easy to see that the distributor becomes the forwardmost problem. I'm going to seriously consider the megajolt jr. to get rid of it. I love those headers, they're off a 4.0, all stainless and heat shielded.
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Shot of the engine mount and cradle, all handmade, about 20 hours of work. If you can find something off the shelf, take it!
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streetrover
post Dec 26 2009, 10:37 AM
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That sure is a clean motor!
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streetrover
post Dec 26 2009, 10:41 AM
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It may have taken awhile, but that crossmount looks sweet!
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 26 2009, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(streetrover @ Dec 26 2009, 08:41 AM) *

It may have taken awhile, but that crossmount looks sweet!


Thanks, if you can't find anything off the shelf you may be doing the same. I'll take some dimensions off the xmember before I drop it in, which will give you a head start on the job if you end up doing it yourself. How's your metalworking and welding skills? I like the looks of your engine mounts and would definitely build around them, if possible. I built in about 1 1/2" of fore and aft adjustment which will enable me to snug it up as close as possible to the firewall.

Where you at with your engine?

Tom
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JRust
post Dec 26 2009, 07:24 PM
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QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Dec 26 2009, 03:57 PM) *

QUOTE(streetrover @ Dec 26 2009, 08:41 AM) *

It may have taken awhile, but that crossmount looks sweet!


Thanks, if you can't find anything off the shelf you may be doing the same. I'll take some dimensions off the xmember before I drop it in, which will give you a head start on the job if you end up doing it yourself. How's your metalworking and welding skills? I like the looks of your engine mounts and would definitely build around them, if possible. I built in about 1 1/2" of fore and aft adjustment which will enable me to snug it up as close as possible to the firewall.

Where you at with your engine?

Tom


Hey Tom is your tranny linkage going to clear that mount? It looks like it will sit pretty close to where that goes through? I know when I went to my sideshift on mine I had issues with it hitting my mount on shifts? Had to modify my linkage just a bit
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 26 2009, 08:00 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Dec 26 2009, 05:24 PM) *

QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Dec 26 2009, 03:57 PM) *

QUOTE(streetrover @ Dec 26 2009, 08:41 AM) *

It may have taken awhile, but that crossmount looks sweet!


Thanks, if you can't find anything off the shelf you may be doing the same. I'll take some dimensions off the xmember before I drop it in, which will give you a head start on the job if you end up doing it yourself. How's your metalworking and welding skills? I like the looks of your engine mounts and would definitely build around them, if possible. I built in about 1 1/2" of fore and aft adjustment which will enable me to snug it up as close as possible to the firewall.

Where you at with your engine?

Tom


Hey Tom is your tranny linkage going to clear that mount? It looks like it will sit pretty close to where that goes through? I know when I went to my sideshift on mine I had issues with it hitting my mount on shifts? Had to modify my linkage just a bit


I had the hole cut for the linkage, but now it looks like I'm going to be off a bit. That whole shift rod is such a convoluted mess it's a wonder anybody hits a shift. I've got a hole cut in the xmember, but it's looking like I may be off a bit., I'm thinking I'm going to cut the rod right behind the firewall and rotate it a bit to clear. Upon close inspection, it even appears that it may be possible to run a straight shot from the firewall to to the tranny. Now wouldn't that improve shifting accuracy?

Tom
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streetrover
post Dec 27 2009, 06:19 PM
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'62 Buick 215 intake manifold arrived Thurs. (Xmas present to myself! -- $200). Upon initial placement it seems to fit perfectly! Carb adapter plate is on its way ($15). Trying to retrieve carburetor I lent to a friend (Edelbrock 600cfm with electric choke). Need to run by bank Monday to transfer funds for distributor-less ignition (trigger-wheels.com -- $500), adapter plate and flywheel (kennedyeng.com -- $550) external water pump (renegadehybrids.com -- $350) and 100 amp alternator (wrecking yard -- $100). At this point I feel that I am single-handedly reinvigorating the American economy! LOL!
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 27 2009, 06:35 PM
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QUOTE(streetrover @ Dec 27 2009, 04:19 PM) *

'62 Buick 215 intake manifold arrived Thurs. (Xmas present to myself! -- $200). Upon initial placement it seems to fit perfectly! Carb adapter plate is on its way ($15). Trying to retrieve carburetor I lent to a friend (Edelbrock 600cfm with electric choke). Need to run by bank Monday to transfer funds for distributor-less ignition (trigger-wheels.com -- $500), adapter plate and flywheel (kennedyeng.com -- $550) external water pump (renegadehybrids.com -- $350) and 100 amp alternator (wrecking yard -- $100). At this point I feel that I am single-handedly reinvigorating the American economy! LOL!

Keep it coming, your own economic stimulus program! That 600 Edelbrock is going to be a bit much for your engine. I've got a 500 Edelbrock on my TR8 and have to jet it pretty lean. A lot of guys run Holley 390's on these engines. I'm checking into that trigger-wheel thing.

Tom
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JRust
post Dec 27 2009, 07:13 PM
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I have the 600cfm with electric choke on mine. It works but like Tom said I would go smaller. I think a 500 or less is about right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . I should have mentioned I have some parts. I have a whole extra complete motor. I would have given you a better break for the intake. All ready for a carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Sounds like you are making some strides though. Nothing like being fresh into a project
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codices
post Dec 27 2009, 08:57 PM
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Sounds like you are coming along quite well with the project. I have the Edelbrock manifold along with the Edelbrock Performer 500 CFM carb. My ignition is the Crane Allison optical unit. I am concerned about exhaust manifold/headers. Any good ideas?

Dave
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Cheapsnake
post Dec 28 2009, 09:09 AM
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QUOTE(codices @ Dec 27 2009, 06:57 PM) *

I am concerned about exhaust manifold/headers. Any good ideas?

Dave


I got mine off ebay. All stainless and heat shielded for $169. The guy usually has these listed if you do a search on Rover 4.0. BTW, ask him where my harmonic balancer is. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Tom
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codices
post Dec 28 2009, 11:12 AM
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Tom,
Are those headers fromOverland Rover Chop Shop in Glasgow, Kentucky? He has some on e-bay that look like yours but the ad says they are cast iron???

Dave
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codices
post Dec 28 2009, 11:37 AM
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Tom,
I didn't read his ad well enough. He says that they are better than cast iron so I assume they are stainless like yours. I wonder if they will fit the Buick 215 heads?
I will contact D&D to see if that is the case.

Dave
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