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> My chassis twisted hardcore
davesprinkle
post Feb 17 2010, 11:00 PM
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That sucks. The only real option is to cut a few slots through the new sheet metal to allow the car to spring back to its natural position. Then weld up the slots again. This time slowly. Do a couple inches, then use an air compressor to blow it cool.
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turnaround89
post Feb 17 2010, 11:25 PM
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the weirdest part is that the door hangs low at the back...i don't think the car is unsafe to drive, its just the doors will not line up. The chassis is way stronger than it used to be. I took some measurements, and the car has shrunk...the gap from the windshield frame to the targa bar is the only severely off measurement, everything else seems right
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davesprinkle
post Feb 17 2010, 11:41 PM
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QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Feb 17 2010, 09:25 PM) *

the weirdest part is that the door hangs low at the back...i don't think the car is unsafe to drive, its just the doors will not line up. The chassis is way stronger than it used to be. I took some measurements, and the car has shrunk...the gap from the windshield frame to the targa bar is the only severely off measurement, everything else seems right


That's right, you've curled up the longs into a curve. The door sits low, the door opening is the wrong shape, the targa bar is too close to the windshield header, your wheel alignment is screwed.

It might be stronger, but it's definitely not better. I know this sucks to hear, but you need to try to undo this. You should cut a series of slots through the added sheet metal to relieve the stresses that you've locked into the car.



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rick 918-S
post Feb 18 2010, 08:21 AM
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Don't bend the door! Fix the chassis. If you bend the hinges in the door frame you will build in a new problem. Someplace there are chassis dimensions. maybe here or on the bird site.

Or you can ge measurements off a known good car. Do you have a parts car with a good door opening? Even a rusted one usually had a driver side that is good (not sagging) You need to find out if the cowl is leaning back or if the latch pillar is leaning forward.

Don't assume anything check, check, check. Then cut through the chassis stiffening and use a port-o-power to adjust the gap back. You will have to push past the correct place because the car will spring back slightly wen you release the pressure.

Be sure you cut through the chassis stiffening before trying to push the car back. If you don't weaking the car you will just push damage in the car someplace else.

Good luck!
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sean_v8_914
post Feb 18 2010, 09:30 AM
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yup. show teh good chassis doctor your set up, bracing used, jack stand set up. how did you support the car.
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rick 918-S
post Feb 19 2010, 12:31 AM
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I'm like 400 miles from you. (6 hrs) But I have a full dance card or I would gladly come down to help. Show us a couple photos maybe we can help figure out this puzzle.
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ghuff
post Feb 19 2010, 09:26 AM
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This is certainly not what I expected down here.
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Pics. You can recover from this.
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 19 2010, 10:39 AM
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http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

Find out where you are. Then you'll know where to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Krank
post Feb 19 2010, 10:57 AM
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Has anyone tried bonding stiffner panels in with the panel adhesives now available?
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yeahmag
post Feb 19 2010, 11:01 AM
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That's a really interesting idea...
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Katmanken
post Feb 19 2010, 12:35 PM
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Wouldn't do it.

They are designed for adhering non-structural body parts. They require really clean non-rusty metals, our are cars are old and rusty, and the rust never sleeps.

I can guarantee that if a rust bubble forms under a glue joint that the pressure from the growing rust cell is so large that it will delaminate the joint. Might take time, but a structural use would fail just when you don't want it- ie under a cornering load.

There are stuctual aircraft adhesives, but they work on clean aluminum.


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Rod
post Feb 19 2010, 02:41 PM
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I can't offer help as I haven't been here, But I feel for you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) With the advise and expertise here I'm sure you'll get it sorted though..

Cut those slits cut..
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turnaround89
post Feb 20 2010, 01:07 AM
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So the windshield frame has come back towards the targa bar, which would explain why the pasenger door hangs low at the back. the measurement is about 1/8" off on each side. Right now i am trying to locate someone around illinois that has a frame rack and seeing what they can do. I don't want to cut anything until i get that opinion. I have ideas on how to fix it, however, to have a professional get the car dead straight is what i would rather have then me trying to pull this off. Anyone know of a place that can straighten out the frame?

At first i didn't think you could straighten a unibody car on a frame rack, but apparently its possible...just gotta find someone that can do it for me or give me their opinion.
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 20 2010, 02:46 AM
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Brad Mayeur at 914 Limited should have some idea of where you can find a rack for the car.

--DD
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rick 918-S
post Feb 20 2010, 07:31 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Feb 20 2010, 02:46 AM) *

Brad Mayeur at 914 Limited should have some idea of where you can find a rack for the car.

--DD


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I used to have a Cellette. That would be the best way.
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turnaround89
post Feb 20 2010, 11:24 AM
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I have no problems towing the car to have it fixed, if i have to tow it 4 hours somewhere, i am fine with that. as long as it gets done correctly. The thing i don't understand is, since the car bowed into itself, how does a machine fix that?
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 20 2010, 11:35 AM
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Very powerful hydraulics. You may still need to make some cuts as recommended.

Andy can give you a very thorough explaination. His car was tweeked and "then" a cage was welded in. When he decided to have it fixed, the cutting of the cage "really" told the story of how far out they can be and what can be done to fix them properly. There's a picture here somewhere of that cut and a detailed thread on that fix.

Search (cause I'm to lazy to do it for you). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 20 2010, 11:44 AM
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Also, that window frame doesn't really do "jack" for measurement purposes. I can bent one of those easily by hand. You'll get a bunch of various windshield frame measurements here that are probably 1/4" off. There "is" a standard top frame measurement BUT, get the proper jam measurements first and then worry about the frame.

Hit that link I sent you and get door frame measurements as Rick suggested.
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gopack
post Feb 20 2010, 11:52 AM
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I just did a Google search for "celette bench shop" and one of the first hits was this one.

celette bench

From that web site:

Attached Image

Looks like the best posible place to start! Even has 914 content and I didn't even include that in the search criteria!

P.S. i am just up the road from you in Madison (for now). If you ever need a hand (I'm not that useful) with a project taht requires more than 2 hands, give me a PM throught the site!
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jcambo7
post Feb 20 2010, 07:46 PM
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QUOTE(gopack @ Feb 20 2010, 11:52 AM) *

I just did a Google search for "celette bench shop" and one of the first hits was this one.

celette bench

From that web site:

Attached Image

Looks like the best posible place to start! Even has 914 content and I didn't even include that in the search criteria!

P.S. i am just up the road from you in Madison (for now). If you ever need a hand (I'm not that useful) with a project taht requires more than 2 hands, give me a PM throught the site!

Thats cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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