Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

4 Pages V « < 2 3 4  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> My chassis twisted hardcore
IronHillRestorations
post Feb 26 2010, 09:03 AM
Post #61


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,792
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



I have an old Blackhawk bench, that I'm nearly certain will work with Celette fixtures. Where do you rent the fixtures?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Feb 26 2010, 10:17 AM
Post #62


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(9146986 @ Feb 26 2010, 09:03 AM) *

I have an old Blackhawk bench, that I'm nearly certain will work with Celette fixtures. Where do you rent the fixtures?


Greg Fritz

Sales and Technical Support

630-396-6100 ext 6170 Office
630-495-4078 Fax

www.celette-na.com
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post Feb 26 2010, 12:40 PM
Post #63


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,792
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



Thanks Rick! I felt kinda stupid after my post, as I found your prior post with his contact info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I spoke with Greg and it looks like the Celette fixtures will fit my bench!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post Feb 26 2010, 12:46 PM
Post #64


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,792
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



Didn't someone copy the fixture dimensions in CAD??? That would be way coooool.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SirAndy
post Feb 26 2010, 03:48 PM
Post #65


Resident German
*************************

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,945
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California



QUOTE(9146986 @ Feb 26 2010, 10:46 AM) *

Didn't someone copy the fixture dimensions in CAD??? That would be way coooool.

We didn't have enough time and Mueller somehow wasn't too excited about doing all the grunt work himself. Go figure ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Andy
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Feb 26 2010, 03:56 PM
Post #66


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



update: the drivers side door fits properly, shimmed the bottom and it works the way it should. All i have to worry about now is getting the passenger side door to shut and the targa top to fit correctly. I know the problem with the targa top is the the car actually rotated on an axis slightly. The top latches securely with three latches, but the passenger side one won't line up. You can also see the top overhangs the rollbar on the passenger side and doesn't line up there. My question is should i start with the targa top first and get that to fit correctly or work on the door? Either way i have to cut out some metal, just wondering if one should be done before the other.

My plan to get the targa top to fit would be to push under the corner of the car and rotate the car back the other direction. Cut the car almost in half(leave the center tunnel alone and intact), but the floor pans and longs would be cut. Then with a bottle jack, jack up the opposite side of the car(drivers side) rotating the chassis back into alignment. Measuring along the way from rollbar to door hinge plate, so things line up.

For the door, it would be similar but jacking the car apart parallel to the door opening itself. Since the door hangs down, at the back, having the car twisted back into alignment should fix, if not repair, that problem. I know the door opening has to be pushed further apart because the triangular window hits the windshield frame. This is where jacking the car apart in the door opening comes in, jack the car apart, somehow hold that spacing and place the door back on and make sure everything lines up.

I am open to any comments anyone has to modify my methods. I thought i would start this next week, but i have spring break from the 8th thru the 12th, plenty of time then to work on this.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Feb 26 2010, 07:02 PM
Post #67


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Feb 26 2010, 03:56 PM) *

update: the drivers side door fits properly, shimmed the bottom and it works the way it should. All i have to worry about now is getting the passenger side door to shut and the targa top to fit correctly. I know the problem with the targa top is the the car actually rotated on an axis slightly. The top latches securely with three latches, but the passenger side one won't line up. You can also see the top overhangs the rollbar on the passenger side and doesn't line up there. My question is should i start with the targa top first and get that to fit correctly or work on the door? Either way i have to cut out some metal, just wondering if one should be done before the other.

My plan to get the targa top to fit would be to push under the corner of the car and rotate the car back the other direction. Cut the car almost in half(leave the center tunnel alone and intact), but the floor pans and longs would be cut. Then with a bottle jack, jack up the opposite side of the car(drivers side) rotating the chassis back into alignment. Measuring along the way from rollbar to door hinge plate, so things line up.

For the door, it would be similar but jacking the car apart parallel to the door opening itself. Since the door hangs down, at the back, having the car twisted back into alignment should fix, if not repair, that problem. I know the door opening has to be pushed further apart because the triangular window hits the windshield frame. This is where jacking the car apart in the door opening comes in, jack the car apart, somehow hold that spacing and place the door back on and make sure everything lines up.

I am open to any comments anyone has to modify my methods. I thought i would start this next week, but i have spring break from the 8th thru the 12th, plenty of time then to work on this.



Let me try to break this down for you if I can. Porsche doors don't get shims. If the door required shims on the lower hinge the car is bent.

Here's a crude drawing of what you should try based on your discription.

Attached Image

Get a hand pump port-o-power and carefully set it up in the car. The lower should be on top of the long in the corner against the rear bulkhead. The other end should be against a wood block about the height of the upper hinge. Take a mm tape measure and check your progress.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Feb 26 2010, 10:41 PM
Post #68


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



that is exactly what my passenger side door looks like when its on...that description worked perfectly, thank you. Would the method i described for the targa top going back into place work? Jack the opposing side so the car twists back into alignment.

When you show, make the cut in the metal, should i just make a slot on the bottom and follow it up around the corners or cut the hole thing all the way around?

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Feb 26 2010, 11:21 PM
Post #69


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



Here's another crude sketch. I assume you used something like the Engman kit for a chassis stiffening kit. If you did just cut vertically through the kit as shown in red.

Also you seem to be saying the windsheild is off center from the targa bar.

The measurements should show the right side from the targa bar to the WS frame should be shorter than the left side. Also the diagonal should show the measurement from the right WS corner to the left targa bar should be shorter than the left SW to right targa.

So. As you push the cowl forward and even out the targa top opening the diagonal should straighten.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Feb 26 2010, 11:49 PM
Post #70


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



what your saying is fixing the door, should also fix the targa top as well? makes sense....thanks again. Ill give this a try in about a week!!!!!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Feb 27 2010, 08:02 AM
Post #71


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Feb 26 2010, 11:49 PM) *

what your saying is fixing the door, should also fix the targa top as well? makes sense....thanks again. Ill give this a try in about a week!!!!!


Yes. That's what I'm saying. And remove the shims from the drivers door. It's bassackwards but fit the doors to the fenders then adjust he cowl to match the doors to the latch pillar.

Before you start trying to tweek the bottom of the car. (Which could be off by the way) I'm much less suspect of the platform having a twist than I am the upper body, Start as I instructed.

1.) make a diagram. Stick people work just fine.

2.) Confirm the cowl is back. From your discription this seems to be the case.

3.) confirm the rear body is not tipped forward or sagged. Doesn't sound like it is from your discription.

4.) Start by cutting only through the reinforcements you installed at the cowl.

5.) Start on the passanger side. (the worst side as you discribed)

You will notice as you move the cowl forward on the passenger side the driver side will move.

Think of a wire cube. If you push on one corner the whole cube moves. Uni-body cars are the same way.

Take your time. Think it through. Move the damage back. You will notice you will need to move push past the desired measurement because the car will act like a spring.

Good luck.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Mar 4 2010, 02:41 PM
Post #72


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



I want to give a big thanks to everyone that helped me out in this situation. the doors now work properly, the top fits better than when i originally bought the car. The chassis is rigged, but not twisted or bent anymore. the car is on the ground and all the doors work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Mar 4 2010, 03:57 PM
Post #73


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



So tell us what you did! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
drive-ability
post Mar 4 2010, 06:14 PM
Post #74


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,169
Joined: 18-March 05
From: Orange County, California
Member No.: 3,782



I second that above request (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Great news, now what did ya do ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Mar 4 2010, 06:21 PM
Post #75


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



i did exactly what rick told me to do, i used a bottle jack, instead of the port-o-power, and pushed daigonally across the door jam. I had to cut both sides of the car at the same spot. When i cut the drivers side, all the stress was relieved and the car would move around in any way we wanted to. Along with jacking diagonally across the door jam we also pushed up from underneath, with another jack. At this point the targa top wouldn't fit correctly, but the doors shut. To get the top to fit, i placed a jack stand on the drivers side trailing arm mount. this pushed that corner of the car up, slightly rotating the car making the targa top fit way better then it did before. AFter everything was lined up how we wanted it, i started welding. switched sides this time, so the car wouldn't twist again. Got everything welded up, put the tires on and the car back on the ground and everything still works. I can now move onto the next project, bodywork and replacing the windshield. I actually managed to get the windshield out by myself. I have always wanted to redo that piece of vinyl thats right there underneath the windshield, so now is the best time to do it. And the seal that goes down there was as hard as a rock. I saved myself the 175 dollar of having someone else install the windshield, now i can spend it on a new lower seal
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jonferns
post Mar 4 2010, 06:27 PM
Post #76


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,081
Joined: 29-March 07
From: New Jersey
Member No.: 7,631
Region Association: North East States



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Mar 4 2010, 06:36 PM
Post #77


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Mar 4 2010, 06:21 PM) *

i did exactly what rick told me to do, i used a bottle jack, instead of the port-o-power, and pushed daigonally across the door jam. I had to cut both sides of the car at the same spot. When i cut the drivers side, all the stress was relieved and the car would move around in any way we wanted to. Along with jacking diagonally across the door jam we also pushed up from underneath, with another jack. At this point the targa top wouldn't fit correctly, but the doors shut. To get the top to fit, i placed a jack stand on the drivers side trailing arm mount. this pushed that corner of the car up, slightly rotating the car making the targa top fit way better then it did before. AFter everything was lined up how we wanted it, i started welding. switched sides this time, so the car wouldn't twist again. Got everything welded up, put the tires on and the car back on the ground and everything still works. I can now move onto the next project, bodywork and replacing the windshield. I actually managed to get the windshield out by myself. I have always wanted to redo that piece of vinyl thats right there underneath the windshield, so now is the best time to do it. And the seal that goes down there was as hard as a rock. I saved myself the 175 dollar of having someone else install the windshield, now i can spend it on a new lower seal



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap23.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
turnaround89
post Mar 4 2010, 08:10 PM
Post #78


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 671
Joined: 17-May 08
From: Rockford, Illinois
Member No.: 9,067
Region Association: Upper MidWest



Once again a BIG THANK YOU to everyone that has helped out. I may get lucky enough to drive the car sometime in may to school again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
markb
post Mar 4 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #79


914less :(
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,449
Joined: 22-January 03
From: Nipomo, CA
Member No.: 180
Region Association: Central California



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

4 Pages V « < 2 3 4
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 27th December 2024 - 05:08 AM