V8 and liquid cooled guys..., Want to install a heater??? Here's mine Options

[Mike Bellis]

I think this one is too thick. You would need to remove all of the rain shield to get it to fit. The plumbing looks like it might be a problem too. The one I have is 10x6x1 and almost fits perfectly. The plumbing is easy and right between the air box and gas tank. The design of the core I have is a "cross flow" and made for maximum oil cooling. I think it will conduct heat really well. I paid $25 at the junk yard and it is is perfect condition. I had to run some carb cleaner through it to get all the tranny fluid out. I flushed it with water and it looks brand new.
If you want to make a new plenum from fiberglass, a bigger core can fit but it would be much more fab work. I spent 2 hours making this and 24 hours waiting for the mastic to cure to seal the housing. I just ordered some high performance, insulated heater hose in bulk. I'm thinking of running it in the factory heater tube in the long. I'm going to install some new aluminum flex hose to insulate it further where it comes up through the floor. I think this will seal excess heat out of the cabin.

Hi Mike --

Great post! I am just now trying to figure out the heating system for my Suby conversion, so the timing is perfect.

Why run the hoses through the heater tubes? Why not just tap into the "in" side of the radiator hose?

Geoff

My radiator runs super cool, too cool. And... I don't have any air in the radiator, so why induce it by cutting into it. When I drive the car, the temp never gets above 150 unless I'm stopped long enough. I have the heater connections on the engine already (although plugged). So if I use the factory heater connection, I only have to purge air out of the heater system. Also, I considered using the radiator but there was no really clean way th get hoses up the the air box. I could drill holes and run under the gas tank, but that would heat up the fuel. The tube in the long is already there doing nothing. It was designed for heat. There is not really any sharp edges in there. I also could have run the lines similar to the factory A/C lines. But then the hoses are in the wheel wells and more holes have to be drilled.

[strawman]

My radiator runs super cool, too cool. And... I don't have any air in the radiator, so why induce it by cutting into it. When I drive the car, the temp never gets above 150 unless I'm stopped long enough. I have the heater connections on the engine already (although plugged). So if I use the factory heater connection, I only have to purge air out of the heater system. Also, I considered using the radiator but there was no really clean way th get hoses up the the air box. I could drill holes and run under the gas tank, but that would heat up the fuel. The tube in the long is already there doing nothing. It was designed for heat. There is not really any sharp edges in there. I also could have run the lines similar to the factory A/C lines. But then the hoses are in the wheel wells and more holes have to be drilled.

Hi Mike,

Kewl, let me know how it goes. I'm not too far away -- and I appreciate the fiberglass rear trunk lid -- so PM me if I can help you with the install.

Geoff

[marks914]

Yup,
we made about 30 of these over the past few years,. I like to use a 94 Mustang core. thin and both tubes come out theend.
Mark
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/inlinethumb08.webshots.com-2912-1269693793.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/inlinethumb29.webshots.com-2912-1269693794.2.jpg)

[Bruce Hinds]

Ford core is the way to go.... I just don't think you will flow enough water with the small brass fittings.
I wish I could remember more about how I fashoned the inside for the rain water, I did this so many year ago, I can't get a pic of the inside without takeing it apart. The idea is though that the core must be covered so water will drain and not get sucked through the core.
This isn't a very good picture, had to use my cellphone, can't find the camera! the aluminum cover has a bulge you can't see that I used a hamer and a bag to create. And the first fitting in the line is a plastic filler "T" that I put a schrader valve in to vent the system. The second fitting is the mopar valve that is hooked the red lever on the dash.

[computers4kids]

Mike, I understand your logic with wanting to run hoses to the engine, but I would like to tap into the radiator since mine always runs between 180-190. My biggest concern is how to run the hoses and the introduction of a "high spot" in the system.

So if a valve is inserted in the high spot, would it be a good way to bleed the entire system with the heater on? This may be a dumb question, but how do you know all the air is out of the system?

[Mike Bellis]

Mike, I understand your logic with wanting to run hoses to the engine, but I would like to tap into the radiator since mine always runs between 180-190. My biggest concern is how to run the hoses and the introduction of a "high spot" in the system.

So if a valve is inserted in the high spot, would it be a good way to bleed the entire system with the heater on? This may be a dumb question, but how do you know all the air is out of the system?

The number one reason I know all the air is out, because it runs too cool. If air was trapped in the system it would run hotter. I also have a steep driveway. I have parked both directions and opened the high spots looking for air. I have an aluminum vessel for the hoses to pass through at the engine bay. This is the rear high spot. My radiator leans back and has a petcock at the highest spot in front.

It would not be hard to tap into the radiator hoses with a T, but you then have to re-bleed the system. and recover all that glycol in the system. Ethelene Glycol is hazardous to the environment.

As part of my job, We use liquid monitoring equipment. To purge the air out of our system we use a vacuum pump pulling through a vessel. The system is sealed except for the vacuum port. the vessel connects between the vac pump and vac port. this keeps any liquid out of the pump. if the system is sealed, the vac pump will pull all the air to the vessel. This technique can be used for purgng air from our cooling systems too.

[dflesburg]

http://www.amazon.com/Koolatron-12v-Auto-H...r/dp/B0001Z2S4K

cant use it in a 4 cly car because it draws too many amps...

[matthepcat]

I found this heating system much easier to install:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img824.imageshack.us-11125-1317665921.1.jpg)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Ductech]

kq6dxn You must think a lot like myself cause this is what i started doing. although i started with a heater core from a subaru legacy. Where did you get that tranny cooler?

[Mike Bellis]

Junk yard. Ford F150

[JRust]

I don't have pics at the moment. My previous Rotary conversion car had a nice system setup. It was built & bolted to the engine bar right next to the motor. Easy to have the lines run from the motor ports. Then introduced the heat the way the heat exchangers do. Had dual hoses running to each side just like you would for HE. Seemed like a pretty good way to go if you have the space in your engine bay. Which most of us with watercooled motor's do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Looked up my thread & got pics

[andys]

If you have an inkling to run an under dash AC unit, they are avaiable in heat/cool, so they have a heater core in the unit. All it needs are the lines. I'm installing this type of unit in my car; It has a defrost diverter valve which I plan to duct into the heat ducts on either side on the cabin (which may be a real challenge, but that's what I'm planning on).

Andys

[Mike Bellis]

Jaime, Your setup is awesome but bulky. I could not fit your rotary system in my rotary conversion. I bet it works great though... My system works pretty good too. In fact, I need to figure out how to shut if off better during the summer months.

[ruby914]

I missed this discussion last year when I was looking for a good heating solution.
Biggest thing I would like is defrost.
I came up with a pick your part heater core from, I think, a Kia.
I remember it fit well in the fresh air box and took a photo before aborting the idea and made a heat exchange box for the core in the engine compartment.
I used one 914 blower that pushed the hot air through the longs. The coolant lines came directly from the Subaru ports.
The heater lever opened a coolant valve from a Honda at the same time it opened the flapper boxes.

I was not happy with this setup. My windshield is not fully defrosted by the time I get home from work. Sure it is only 2 miles but the type IV did the job fine.
For 1 I don't feel a single 914 blower has the capacity I need.
I am not sure now but isn't some of the type IV cooling fan air directed to the 914 heat exchangers? If so I am missing a big fan.
I also feel the 914 heat exchange system would generate a lot of hot air faster than heating coolant first. On top of all this I am pushing the hot air a long way through cool long tubes.

I am thinking about going back to the fresh air box idea but I was not sure how to get good hot coolant flow to the core.
I now think a smaller fitting to the hot radiator line, larger to the cool line would create a vacuum? Or better if I could send the larger core line back to the hot to be cooled more by the radiator?
Mark and Bruce may be able to answer some of my questions on this method. Is there any function lost by putting the core in the fresh air box? I think of the fresh air fan mostly for the dash vents, not so much for the defrost vents, do the vents de vert for defrosting well? I was also worried about having the fan motor down stream of the heat exchange.

JRust has the same as I, I wonder if he is getting fast hot air with his system.
I'm thinking if I did that off by Turbo down tube I would get some hot air fast.
Again I find it easier to suck the hot air through the 914 blower and don't think it would hold up to the heat. So I am tossed between the fresh air box or Turbo down tube...

[okieflyr]

Yup,
we made about 30 of these over the past few years,. I like to use a 94 Mustang core. thin and both tubes come out theend.
Mark
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/inlinethumb08.webshots.com-2912-1269693793.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/inlinethumb29.webshots.com-2912-1269693794.2.jpg)

I'm using one of these and I'm a satisfied customer. The airflow dynamics work well and the cabin is toasty. The principal of the heatercore location is sound for heat distribution. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[ruby914]

Here is the system I have now and I am ready to pull it out.
My motor runs cool and I need more heat.

[Mike Bellis]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[BajaXJ92]

Here is the system I have now and I am ready to pull it out.
My motor runs cool and I need more heat.

Care to sell that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[ruby914]

Here is the system I have now and I am ready to pull it out.
My motor runs cool and I need more heat.

Care to sell that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

You know what they say about one mans trash...
Soon as i come up with something that works better for me, its yours.

KG6 mike
Maybe if you use a coolant shutoff valve before and after your heat exchange.

[ruby914]

I am blindly moving forward with this.
I picked up a 3 or 4 speed blower out of a 924, 944 or 928?
It moves a lot more air.
I am now relocating everything in order to make room for it.